Our London and Cambridge Adventure between Christmas and New Year 2015

Following our trip to Italy we spent several days in Roydon, Essex, enjoying the balmy winter weather, family, life in a small village, and the local pub fare.  However whenever we left this quiet sanctuary, it seemed as if all the London crowds travelled with us!  For example, we travelled by train to the Westfield Shopping Centre in Stratford but by lunchtime all of London was there too! On another day we secretly escaped to Cambridge – but that did not work either!  Crowds of locals and tourists were everywhere, resulting in queues to get into the famous Eagle Tavern with its world famous ceiling in the RAF bar, the room in which the 'secret of life' was announced and even its own ghost!

 There was a crowd at the Ronald Searle exhibition at the Fitzwilliam Museum which was not helpful when viewing his and the works of other caricaturists of the 20^th century.  A magnificent building that the Fitzwilliam Museum is housed in – we did not have time to view all the works – but the décor was quite something.  A day of wandering around, lunching at the famous Fitzwilliam Café  - luckily we did not have to queue here to enjoy their delicious food – was ample to get a feel of this renowned University City. Sadly, not one of the University buildings was open for us to inspect, nor was the Polar Museum, which was recommended to us.

Back in London we travelled several times into the central city, to Foyles Bookshop, Rays Jazz Shop – both in new, better designed buildings, shopping, and strolling along in the early evening, enjoying the beautiful Street Christmas decorations.

On our last full day in London, which happened to be the first rainy day of our holiday trip so far, we decided to visit the British Museum. However all the London crowds were there first…… We joined the quickly moving queue into the building and enjoyed a lovely lunch upstairs before enjoying the exhibits.

Most notable of the items we had time to see was the Rosetta Stone and the story of hieroglyphs and the Parthenon sculptures gallery. We would certainly return to the British Museum and view more of its exhibitions!

Our adventure at Cinque Terre

Why go to this lovely world heritage site in winter?  Why not? Actually, I would go again, at any time, and stay longer, and swim and walk....
 The dramatic cliff scape, the buildings are perched on top of each other going up the mountains and are such lovely colours - I wonder if they were always so colourful???

There were no ferries at this time of year  for us enjoy the dramatic views of  villages from the ocean, so we travelled by train to Le Spezia, the main port of the area, then changed to a local train. We first visited Monterosso –the furthest away and with a lovely long beach. Oh, the openness,the freedom, the fresh air and the quiet wave shushing after all those days of narrow smoke stinking streets!!  Bliss….   feeling of freedom...... This and another village got flooded out in 2011, apparently due to global warming, however all the locals got together and fixed everything so today, one would never know.    A quick look around the town at street level and on the train to the smaller village of Vernazza to watch a fishing dingy being hoisted up from the waters far below….  Travelling to Europe in Winter, is so cool - there are no crowds or queues.   However an Asian tour group joined us on the train and we wondered why they did not get off at Corniglia.  This was the only town that had a ‘Welcome to our Village’ sign  and a barking welcome dog - and we soon found out why – there was a switchback series of many stairs to the village high in the hills!  Nothing was open, being the time of year, but thankfully there was a bus service to deliver us to the station down below. Corniglia – visited!! We decided to  eat at Manorola, perched on the edge of the cliff and discovered that the Asian Tour group was dining at a very nice looking restaurant in the main street. As we had plenty of time  for the train before travelling to the next village we elected to settle in for a long lunch of local fare  -  a very good decision, we discovered.  At Cinque Terre one is expected to go walking, we knew, so we elected to do the shortest walk from Riomaggore. However a few minutes into the walk we discovered a very padlocked gate and a notice informing us that the walkway was closed due to slips…….

We then decided to walk up what we thought was the main street only to discover that this was a well  off residential area – odd!!  Back to the station to find an interesting wall lined tunnel  of art leading to the busy main street leading upwards……but we have done enough ups!  Now when is the train leaving to Le Spezia?????

An evening in Pisa, Italy, mid December 2015

While we were travelling by train to Pisa we became rather concerned when the blue sky changed to haze which became more and more dense as we travelled.  However it did clear and we arrived, late afternoon to pleasant grey balmy day at Pisa.

As it was still afternoon we  decided to visit the Palazzo Blu, about 30 minutes walk away from our hotel,was open til 8pm and thought we would check it out.  However, upon arrival we were surprised to be charged a significant fee to enter. But we dutifully paid and trouped upstairs to admire the impressive art and original décor of the palace museum. Most interesting was a collection of drawings of early buildings and scenery of Pisa. Collected and drawn by Adele and her daughter Adele, many of the buildings either do not exist or have  changed, making this a very valuable and treasured history of Pisa.  Just as we were about to leave, we noticed that people were going downstairs to the basement. We decided to follow and  discovered the real reason for the exhorbitant  entry fee - The Toulouse Lautrec Exhibition! This large dramatic display of his works and of the era that he lived and worked –  the stories and history  - most interesting! Here til February and well worth the visit if anyone is passing by.

We also wondered why all the Pisa crowds had decided to cruise down the Main street and why everything was humming.  It turned out that this Sunday evening was one of a series of Christmas festivities.  The featured band, Soul Wood treated us all to a couple of hours of excellent jazz – a perfect end of day event at Pisa. 

Travelling around Venice Part 1

My first and  and all time favourite impression of Venice is walking out of the Santa Lucia Railway station, which is just like any other railway station in Italy, into a completely different world. Different buildings, different transport system, different noises – the quiet purrs of canal boats, the low murmurings of people, and No Traffic! 

Today was even better   - there were hardly any people around!   We checked into Hotel Abbazia, one of our favourite  hotels  - beautiful rooms, and foyers and better still, handy to the railway station so you cannot get lost looking for it – on other occasions we have spent much time looking for hotels along Venice’s many narrow and identical (to us) ‘road’ ways – never again……

It is always a delight to stroll around Venice, especially when there are no crowds!  As always upon our visits here, we discover new places.   Today’s discovery was one of a chain of  small Irish pubs!  Not quite the same as other Irish pubs world wide but definitely Irish, warm, friendly and with reasonably priced beer and cheap sandwiches -  ideal for a walking city!  And yes, we were doing a lot of walking on this day – St Marks Square – still no crowds apart from a few groups of tourists, my favourite lingerie shop, the Black Cat  Shop for our Black Cat Calendar, the Rialto bridge and markets and well, generally strolling – oh look – there is another of those little Irish pubs……..

Titanic Exhibitions in Ireland - a one hundred year commemoration

As it is the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic there is much interest in the ship and the travellers who sailed on her. In Belfast where the ship was built, a new state of the art exhibition centre (nicknamed “The Iceburg’ by the Befast residents) was erected and opened in March 2012 and by Queen Elizabeth’s visit to Belfast in late June had already received over 250,000 visitors. Everything is ‘Titanic’- the height of the magnificent building is the same height of the bow, an inside wall replicates the cladding on the ship, while outside the exact size of the ship is outlined on the ground. The high technological displays engages all the senses - sights, sounds, vibrations. A strong focus of the exhibition was of the building of the vessel, the people, who and why they were on the Titanic for that partcular trip, and the times. There is also a very touching movie featuring the team led by Robert Ballard of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and what they initially saw on the sea floor in 1985. The only item that is not on public display is the Grand Staircase. This is s huge bone of contention amongst locals and visitors. Apparantly one has to attend a VIP function in order to view this famous Titanic artefact. Down in Cobh, fromerly known as Queenstown, Cork, another Titanic exihibition was available to visit. Ths town is the headquarters of the White Star Line company, which looked after the embarkation of passengers and mail before Titanic set sail. This exhibition had a different focus on the tradegy of the Titanic, focussing on the footsteps of the passengers and the times in Cobh. While there was some discussion about the high cost ot visit this exhibition, those of our fellow tourists who did visit felt that the exhibition was well worthwhile. In Cobh itself the town has preserved the buildings of the times in respectful memory of the people on Titanic and the subsequent disaster that befell them, three and a half days from setting sail from this pictuesque town, overseas to see the world. We have visited several Titanic exhibitions around the world, and the development of technology has enabled us to understand more about the boat, the times, why the disaster occurred. Many people have become quite emotional at Titanic exhibitions particularly in Ireland as they are descendents of the builders as well as the staff and passengers who had embarked on that fateful voyage. It also makes one humble and most grateful for the maritime safety rules and regulations in place today as a direct result of the inquiry into the Titanic disaster.

The Chester and Liverpool Adventure

We travelled by rail from London to Chester, through gentle hill rolling green fields and hedgerows, still rather sodden from recent deluges. Very easy on the eye and this green eye candy, along with the gentle rocking of the comfortable Virgin Express train soon had our heads nodding. Our hotel at Chester was at “The Mill’ a former corn mill set on either side of the call, and converted into a hotel by its owners about 20 year ago. Both our room and bathroom were luxurious and spacious, thanks to the hotel website which family inspected when booking the best room they could find for us. The Mill Hotel was immaculately kept and compete with large spa, gym and swimming pool, whick I immediately took advantage of. We expecially liked the prints of Venice (one of our favourite cities) taken many years ago, which adorned the walls - so appropriate for a hotel spanning both sides of the canal and also boasting the only privately owned canal bridge. Chester and the River Dee were most significant for milling, waterway trade and transportation, and more recently for hydro power generation and tourism. The food, tudor style architecture in the main shopping mall and the walkway around the city walls is most popular with travellers. Ah, Liverpool! Home of the Liver Bird and the Beatles! No, we did not do a Beatles tour, but we did stroll down Mathew Street which features the ‘Cavern’ - not the original, and the many Beatles paraphernalia shops and pubs with names such as the ‘Hard Days Night.’ A stroll along the Docklands - now a World Heritage Site - gazing over the Mersey River - remember that song by Gerry and the Pacemakers?? and a visit to the Beatles Museum brought the nostalgia, the music and the exciting days of the 1960’s to the mind. The lads of went to the pub a beer and to watch the Irish v All Blacks game whle the gals quckly checked out the summer sales. While the shops and prices were the same as London, the overstocked untidiness and crowds and queues in the London shops wre missing - much more condusive to shopping!! And yes, we did purchase a couple of little items......

Cannes on a Wintery Sunday

We travelled by train to Cannes, past towns, seaside resorts, a huge luxury apartment block, more resorts, and as we arrived, so did the rain. Ever been to a tourist town in the wintery off season, in the rain? And being a Sunday, with no shops open? We quickly walked from the train station to the seaside, and walked more quickly towards the old town, past the famous Congress Centre where many events including the Cannes Film Festival is held every May. So we missed the hand prints of famous movies stars and various sculptures. But we did wander - very quickly - through the quaint picturesque outdoor Christmas Market - where stall holders outnumbered visitors and over to the old town and up the hill to get a view of the place. Fortunately the rain let up for a but for us to enjoy the view. A beautiful place, even in the gloom!

By now it was lunch time, but no cafes or pubs in sight. The day was So Gloomy we decided to travel back to Nice. Then we discovered a huge french food market - indoors, then fishmongers and many chocolate shops. One had many religious items for christmas, including something for each of the 12 days of Christmas - all in chocolate! Have a look at the pics to see more.

So that was Cannes! I'd love to return in summer! Back in Nice the day was even more gloomy and we set off in the rain to find a place to have a late lunch as there was nothing else to do - everything was closed. No crowds or tourists anywhere.

Al last, after walking for hours, it seemed, in the rain, and feeling very cold and wet, we finally found a street of restaurants, and some were open! Now, which one..

Hey, look at that! A Le Maori Restaurant! I wonder if it does hangi food. No? Well French fare will do! Look at the menu! All Black and Barvarian items. Someone obviously likes rugby here. I wonder if we should mention that our team the All Blacks one against the French at Marseilles last night?? Well, everyone agrees it was a great game. Look at the cutlery! Handles shaped like the Koru. Dessert? Yes please! Gosh, look at the size of our plates! No small arty servings here. And decent sized Stella glasses too. This seems just the place to stay on a wintery afternoon.

And then back to the hotel to pack for our next adventure!

How to get lost on a cruise ship

For someone who goes boating on a cruise ship for the first time it is very easy to get lost. Because the main foyer or the restaurants may be several floors high one often cannot travel from one end of the boat to another on the same floor or corridor. And do not think that to ask a crew person the directions! On the 4th floor, you will be told, but you will not be informed that you must go up an additional level, around a corner then down again. And do not ask another crew person either! Oh that person was new and did not know, you will be told. Oh well, after all that stress of getting lost I think I will retire to the warm spa and solarium...... Now, purchasing that Spa package and relaxing from the crowds of passengers is more my cup of green tea...... Just a minute, are there not 6 pubs, cocktails of the day,lots of wine,dancing,shopping and art to be enjoyed? Must get travelling around this cruise ship, there is so much to discover! Now where is the library? Ah, found it on the last day of our trip when we had to queue to pick up our passports!

The Advantages of Having a Personal Travel Agent

I am very fortunate in having my very own personal Travel Agent.

As well as organising some wonderful trips to my dream places, at the lowest prices he also selects accommodation - at the best prices which are romantic, unique, historic and/or famous.

So it was that in Washington we stayed at the Hilton Capitol - just around the corner from the White House. Originally known as the Hilton Statler, it was completed on the 18th of January, 1943, 3 days after the Pentagon.

it was the most modern hotel of the time and included alumunium windows - which were not widely used then. However the owners donated them to the war effort.

Many famous people have passed through the hotel doors over the years.
In 1963 the Deputy Director Bayard Rustin of the Civil Rights movement stayed there before That March and after that famous "I have a Dream" speech.

President Reagan stayed there and Rose Kennedy hosted the Kennedy Foundation's 1st International Awards Banquet at the hotel.

As I write this, we are back in New York. It is a great time to be visiting here, last weekend was Labour Weekend which is the last of summer , so everything is quiet - no queuesor crowds!!! - almost better than a winter holiday because it is warmer. Anyway before I talk about NY I must tell you more about Washington.....

Thoughts on our Cuban Holiday

It is quite some time since I wrote about our winter holiday, and to say that I have been very busy since our return is true, but not a great excuse.

However, I am still reliving my Cuban holiday! Last weekend I met someone else who had been holidaying in there a few months before I did.

I would like to have enjoyed the Casa experience, as he did. And enjoying a Cuban resort, as he also did. Staying in a Casa, or local home is like a Homestay - one up from back packers I guess. My associate's casa was in the very old part of Havana, and the decor was sixites/seventies. I have heard that staying in a Casa is a great way to experience the Cuban way of life. And a Swedish relative who had also recently visited Cuba, confirmed this. Especially as his hosts were most hospitable. I asked him, "Did you go to ..." and "Did you do...???" "Er, no" was the reply. "We were too busy partying."

Chris and I decided to stay in a Hotel, and after considerable internet research, including inspecting, on google earth, the hotel swimming pools - well, I did - we settled on the Hotel Mercure Sevilla Havane, Havana. The Hotel Sevilla has a most interesting history, and a couple of walls in the foyer with the forever stopping elevators are dedicated to this. There is a huge array of photographs, mainly black and white, with detailed captions. It makes you feel as if you are in a time warp! We found out that we were staying in the room directly above the one which Al Capone slept in.

I have never spent so much time in a hotel foyer, as I did at the Hotel Sevilla. There was so much happening! The decor, people coming and going, and live bands playing from breakfast time til after supper. We very quickly found out that it was cheaper to give them a tip/donation rather than purchase a CD which worked out at NZD$20. But we inadvertently acquired a very good Cd with great compilations of Cuban music.

If one likes partying, then Havana is the place to be. Not only is there music everywhere, Rum cocktails are so cheap - at around NZD $3 each, and delicious! I wonder if it is because Havana Rum is most generously applied to each drink? Much better than NZ rum, but I do know of a couple of barpeople in Ponsonby who make mojita's which taste almost as good as the Cuban ones.

If you are not into rum, but you cannot help foot tapping or evening dancing a bit of Salsa to the lively Cuban music, you do not even have to go into any of the bars or cafes. Just do as the locals do - hang in the windows! The glassless window shutters are always open to let the air circulate, and the openings are always full of people leaning in from the street, enjoying the ambience and music. Just watch where you put your bag, though...

The food, after reading about how not to go to Cuba for the cuisine or shopping, I enjoyed. Simple, with not much variety of ingredients, it was always cooked beautifully and well presented.

So there are the basics. Oh, and I had better mention the weather. January is ideal for Travellers - not hot and muggy, but a bit cold for the locals. There was not all that many travellers or back packers about, which suited us very well. Too cool, in my opinion to languish around the swimming pool, but I did take a couple of quick dips. And yes, as all the travel articles say, the pool is overlooked by a dilapated apartment building!

More about that later....

Winter snapshot of Madrid, Spain

Flying is such a great way to travel! One usually has a glimpse of the land of one's destination and flying over the Spanish countryside, over the 'swirly' mountain ranges, which looked as if they had been 'combed' in white snow, we reached the different shades of brown flattish countryside around Madrid. That's interesting, I thought, no snow! A few days ago I had received an email from a Swedish relative wondering if we had encountered a blanket of snow in Madrid. From the air the city did not look as if it had suffered from any snow at all. It was not until we taxied into the airport that we noticed that there were quite a few large clumps of snow on either side of the runway.

Madrid Barajas International Airport is huge. Situated about 13 kilometers from Madrid, it is a central hub for travellers, including to South and Central America, and Cuba. In 2006 a new extension was added to the airport, doubling its capacity. The terminal we arrived in and travelled to Cuba from, was light, airy, spacious and clean, and pleasantly free of travelling crowds. It even had a few sculptures here and there - some of which are in the slideshow. Our first glimpse of Madrid while travelling in from the Madrid Barajas International Airport, was a city of low buildings, apart from 4 skyscrapers on the horizon. Apparently these buildings, all individually architecturally designed, are part of Madrid's new business centre in the north of the city. Soon they will be joined by Spain's biggest, and brand new convention centre which will be shaped like the rising sun, reflecting Madrid's growth.

It was most pleasant to stroll around Madrid's City Centre, enjoying the large silvery fountains and feeling of light airy space. The temperature was a cool but dry 6 degrees and we were able to shed more layers of winter clothng. The city is around 100 years old, so the buildings are not too tall, plain with decorative features near the tops (sorry don't know the style) and the footpaths and boulevards wide. Madrid citizens are great walkers, and indeed the later in the day it became, the bigger the crowds grew in the shopping streets. However the wide boulevards in the middle of other wide streets were not too crowded as to make walking a mission, as it was not quite warm enough to sit outside in the cafes.

Yes, I know we said that we had had enough of museums!!! But we could not resist a peek at the Titanic exhibition which, even though most of us know the story inside out, was well worth the visit. As a result I and Daughter-in-Law each now own a necklace featuring a piece of coal off the Titanic!! And yes, we had a look through the Royal Palace, with it's luxurious velvet hangings and drapes, and inspected the huge and most impressive Armoury. Not only that, we just had to visit the Museo Nacionale de Prado. We spent about 3 hours in this world renowned National Museum, which, in its programme, had noted all the 'must see' art works and sculptures in its huge collection, which was very useful. Works by Spaniards Goya, Greco, Rembrandt, Rubens and Gainsborough have been beautifully restored and displayed in large spaces. Ideal for viewing, especially as it was winter and not the tourist season so we could see everything at our leisure. When we left the Museo Nacional late in the day we noticed a very long queue of people outside the entrance. We found out that the museum offers free entry on Sundays at 5pm and one weeknight free of charge, to residents who are unable to pay the entrance fee.

But the most interesting and eyecatching exhibition was an outdoor public event, the Cow Parade! They have done quite a bit of travelling since their visit to Auckland, New Zealand, a couple of years ago. These fibreglass, lifesized cows travel the world and are painted by artists in the various locations. At the end of each exhibition the cows are auctioned off for charity. After their Madrid sojourn they will be on display in Hong Kong.

Now, after 6 weeks of travelling to Europe in winter I am hankering for some sunshine and warmth. Thank goodness we are travelling to Cuba tonight......