A Glimpse of our Winter Adventure in Berlin

We knew it would be cold in Berlin. In the minuses, we knew, and in preparation had brought additional layers of clothing for our winter holiday there. However we had not expected the locals to complain as well!  ‘It is minus 7 degrees with a wind chill of minus 21! our shivering cab driver informed us as she hauled our luggage into her boot.    We travelled under a grey sky along grey streets and were met at a grey door behind which was our accommodation. Through a passageway and there they were – the beautiful, red brick, Berlin Lofts!  Once warehouses, today they are tastefully transformed into warm roomy hotel apartments – equipped with practically everything that visitors  to Berlin would want. I could quite happily live in this apartment with its open plan kitchen, dining and lounge area in which a party of 100 people would rattle about.  

Bundled into our many layers we  quickly strolled around the neighbourhood, purchased a few necessities   - oh look! over there looks to be a friendly local pub!  Such warmth – we sighed blissfully as we peeled off our layers of clothing and sat down to enjoy some local beer, wine and food  - and at very reasonable prices, too!  Our 20-month-old grandson was an instant hit with both the staff and regulars – our first realisation that the Berliners love babies!!  This pub became our ‘regular’ during our stay in Berlin  - no doubt the regulars missed our noisy repartee and baby’s antics after our departure.

Our London and Cambridge Adventure between Christmas and New Year 2015

Following our trip to Italy we spent several days in Roydon, Essex, enjoying the balmy winter weather, family, life in a small village, and the local pub fare.  However whenever we left this quiet sanctuary, it seemed as if all the London crowds travelled with us!  For example, we travelled by train to the Westfield Shopping Centre in Stratford but by lunchtime all of London was there too! On another day we secretly escaped to Cambridge – but that did not work either!  Crowds of locals and tourists were everywhere, resulting in queues to get into the famous Eagle Tavern with its world famous ceiling in the RAF bar, the room in which the 'secret of life' was announced and even its own ghost!

 There was a crowd at the Ronald Searle exhibition at the Fitzwilliam Museum which was not helpful when viewing his and the works of other caricaturists of the 20^th century.  A magnificent building that the Fitzwilliam Museum is housed in – we did not have time to view all the works – but the décor was quite something.  A day of wandering around, lunching at the famous Fitzwilliam Café  - luckily we did not have to queue here to enjoy their delicious food – was ample to get a feel of this renowned University City. Sadly, not one of the University buildings was open for us to inspect, nor was the Polar Museum, which was recommended to us.

Back in London we travelled several times into the central city, to Foyles Bookshop, Rays Jazz Shop – both in new, better designed buildings, shopping, and strolling along in the early evening, enjoying the beautiful Street Christmas decorations.

On our last full day in London, which happened to be the first rainy day of our holiday trip so far, we decided to visit the British Museum. However all the London crowds were there first…… We joined the quickly moving queue into the building and enjoyed a lovely lunch upstairs before enjoying the exhibits.

Most notable of the items we had time to see was the Rosetta Stone and the story of hieroglyphs and the Parthenon sculptures gallery. We would certainly return to the British Museum and view more of its exhibitions!

The Jamiesons Adventure at Midleton, Ireland

Well worth visiting is the Jameson Heritage Centre in Midleton, Cork, in the South of Ireland.

The heritage buildings, perfectly restored, relate the way whiskey was produced in the past, including the secrets which made Jamieson’s Whiskey so renowned today. After touring, visitors arrive at the pub where one is expected to drink whiskey, not beer - and where they can have a whiskey tasting or sample one of the many ways that Jamieson’s whiskey can be enjoyed.

An ideal way to commence our Cork adventure before travelling to the Carrigaline Court Hotel.

Chris' Getting Lost Adventure, in Waterford, Ireland

After a wonderful day exploring Kildaire, the Kildagan Stud, and Kilkenny we travelled to the historical Waterford, Ireland. While the name ‘Waterford’ means ‘windy fiord’ it was calm and raining when we arrived. After depositing our luggage at the Waterford Marina Hotel we set out to walk, in the gently falling rain, along the waters edge to visit the Waterford Chamber of Commerce. After quite a long time of walking, it seemed, we decided to grab a taxi to the venue. However there was not enough room for us all so husband Chris, being the gentleman that he is, and also the only person with a hat, said that he would continue walking. We arrived at the Waterford Chamber of Commerce buildings, walked up the beautiful and unique oval stairwell to their offices, to be warmly welcomed by local members.

After quite some time we noticed that Chris had not arrived. Oh dear! And he did not have his iphone with him! So out with the search party….. where might he be?? Was he wandering up and down the Waterford Streets in the rain, still looking for us? Would he have given up on finding us and repaired to the warm hospitality of a local pub to enjoy a beer? And which pub would he have visited? Maybe he returned to the Waterford Marina Hotel? A phone call to the hotel revealed that there was a kiwi in the hotel pub – no, that was not Chris.

But wait, who is that at reception, waiting for a taxi? There he is! Much to our relief, Chris joined us all at the Waterford Chamber of Commerce, in time to meet our guests, enjoy a whisky tasting,then repair with us all to dinner in the beautiful restaurant at the historic Granville Hotel and pub, on the water’s edge of Waterford.

Shopping at Kildaire Shopping Centre Ireland

Mindful that much of our group liked shopping, we visited the white, elegant ‘chic’ luxury factory outlet shopping centre at Kildaire. To prepare ourselves for exciting shopping we dropped in for coffee and the beautifully appointed Italian Restaurant L’Officina then set up It was hard to know where to look first! After picking up some important essentials, we then moved on to another adventure before returning to the old Kildaire Village to visit a large, popular, cabbage smelling pub for a buffet lunch rapidly spooned onto our plates before we could blink an eyelid. Later we strolled through the village of Kildaire- its traditional and a lttle run down main street a complete contrast....

The Chester and Liverpool Adventure

We travelled by rail from London to Chester, through gentle hill rolling green fields and hedgerows, still rather sodden from recent deluges. Very easy on the eye and this green eye candy, along with the gentle rocking of the comfortable Virgin Express train soon had our heads nodding. Our hotel at Chester was at “The Mill’ a former corn mill set on either side of the call, and converted into a hotel by its owners about 20 year ago. Both our room and bathroom were luxurious and spacious, thanks to the hotel website which family inspected when booking the best room they could find for us. The Mill Hotel was immaculately kept and compete with large spa, gym and swimming pool, whick I immediately took advantage of. We expecially liked the prints of Venice (one of our favourite cities) taken many years ago, which adorned the walls - so appropriate for a hotel spanning both sides of the canal and also boasting the only privately owned canal bridge. Chester and the River Dee were most significant for milling, waterway trade and transportation, and more recently for hydro power generation and tourism. The food, tudor style architecture in the main shopping mall and the walkway around the city walls is most popular with travellers. Ah, Liverpool! Home of the Liver Bird and the Beatles! No, we did not do a Beatles tour, but we did stroll down Mathew Street which features the ‘Cavern’ - not the original, and the many Beatles paraphernalia shops and pubs with names such as the ‘Hard Days Night.’ A stroll along the Docklands - now a World Heritage Site - gazing over the Mersey River - remember that song by Gerry and the Pacemakers?? and a visit to the Beatles Museum brought the nostalgia, the music and the exciting days of the 1960’s to the mind. The lads of went to the pub a beer and to watch the Irish v All Blacks game whle the gals quckly checked out the summer sales. While the shops and prices were the same as London, the overstocked untidiness and crowds and queues in the London shops wre missing - much more condusive to shopping!! And yes, we did purchase a couple of little items......

Cities with nooks and crannies - paradises for travellers who enjoy shopping

Many cities such as London, have nooks and crannies which are great for travellers to visit as these give one the real ‘feel’ of the city. Often one needs a ‘local’ fo find these so we were delighted when a friend introduced us to the ‘Lamb and Flag’ in Rose Street, Covent Garden. www.lambandflagcoventgarden.co.uk/ Situated around a couple of corners down some narrow cobbled streets, this pub dates back to 1772 and has played host to many famous people including Charles Dickens. The current owners have kept the original look of the plae depicting its colourful past and we were also treated to ‘recent’ anecdotes experienced in the lifetime of our local friend, also called Charles. A couple of days later we were the same area in London, looking for a Ray’s (not mine) jazz shop, located in the famous Foyles Bookshop - which is well worth a visit. On the way we passed through Denmark and neighbouring streets which turned out to be a small music mecca, with guitar, saxophone, sheet music and other shops selling simiar wares. It was thrilling to hear strings of music wafting from all the shops as we strolled by. Even the Regent and Oxford Street areas, looking fully scrubbed up and very clean in preparation for the Olympics, have lanes and alleyways leading off them enticing strollers to explore the boutique shops bars and eateries. London, like many other cities such as Liverpool, is changing its conjested inner city street to walkways which make exploring ‘nooks and crannies’ much easier. Chester is another city of nooks and crannies, which when we visited, may travellers were exploring. The main street, complete with clock tower dedicated to Empress and Queen Victoria, is lined with tudor styled buildings. between the ground floor shops were many staircases which led to the first floor shops or to lanes to other parts of the city. The city wall, often at first floor level, enables strollers to look into offices and residences as they pass by. More about nooks and crannies to come...

From Florence to Rome, two different cities

Each city we visited during our winter holiday in Europe had it's own special character and personality.

One of the activities I especially enjoyed was exploring the parks and open spaces, even though in winter time they might not be at their best. While Chris explored the antique and artisan shops on the by the bridge with the Jewellery shops, before he discovered a 'real' and warm London Style pub because he refused as did some other visitors to pay to visit a park, I walked around this one, quickly, because the day was very cool. There were many marble statues along the walkways, fountains, a very interesting porcelain display, and a reproduction of a typical cottage or courtyard garden in Pompei, the result of archealogial and soil diggings. As with many gardens of ancient cities, the garden designs were very much advanced and served several purposes, for examplem herbs for cooking, cosmetics and curing, vegetables, flowers, insect control, irrigation, and cooling.

Before I start talking briefly about animals, it is interesting to note that in this garden there was a notice about a particular bird which apparantely was very special, the only time I have ever seen anything at all about animals in parks. All the gardens we visited were restored to preserve the past. Not like in New Zealand, where we conserve our birds and trees!!

While strolling around this park in Florenza, I noticed some very well fed cats and a couple of feeding bowls. Apparently cats are welcome and looked after in some parks. In Rome, the next city we visited, there are many cats living around the Colossium. And there is an organsiation of ladies dedicated to feeding the cats, including speying them and looking after their well being. Their services also include looking after neglected cats, often finding homes for them, a bit like the SPCA in NZ.

Rome was a little warmer than Florence, but damper, we felt. Built on seven, or was it nine hills by Romulus and Remus, Rome today is a city with all the modern trappings built around many ancient ruins, many of which have beed restored and are available to visit. So one can be walking along a busy city street, turn a corner and there is the Coloseum, an ancient church or just a wall. The place I, and many others, love to visit, which is suddenly come upon when turning a corner, is the Trevi Fountain. Attached to the end of a building, the white colouring of the statues and steps, and the peaceful shushing of the water, is an oasis in the city. On the we visited, there were quite a few people there, not like the first time we visited, a few years, in summer, when you could hardly get near to it because of the crowds.

Because we had already visited many of the attrations during our last visit to Rome, this time we spent a lot of time strolling around the city, enjoying the street life and occasionally visiting the shops as the winter sales were in full flow.

The next day we visited the Vatican museum and the Sistine Chapel, more about that in my next blog.

The Pub Scene in Europe

It is always interesting, when traveling, to see what people so for entertainment.

The corner London pubs around the city area are where people congregate at all times of the day and evening it seems. The meals are very good, we felt and there is no smoking, you could go along, with your family and friends and not come out smelling like an ash tray.

In St Petersburg, Russia, everybody smoked everywhere and while we did not visit any pubs while we were there, we noticed that when we sat in the bar/ reception area, our clothes stank of smoke. It was much worse on our last evening of our stay there, as we decided to eat in at the Restaurant. Unforutunately, there was a big party on as well. Everybody smoked and the noise and smoke spoilt our evening, which happened to be Christmas Day, as I recall. I am sure that the smoke brought on my cold, which lasted all through our visits to Sweden and London.

In Sweden people could not smoke inside pubs. At one English style pub we dropped into to warm up from the very cold, we noticed a parcel on a seat where we intended to sit. I was just about to pick it up and take it to the bar when there was a loud tapping on the window. The owners of the parcel were having a smoke outside in the cold and had left in on the seat to book it upon their return.

In Italy, in the pubs the emphasis is on food, not drinking and over indulging is not tolerated. As a result, we noticed very few pubs as we New Zealanders know them, but dairy and delicatassen like shops where you can purchase coffee, and all types of food and have a drink as well. In some cities, for example in Milano, at around about 6 or 7pm a free, or spend so much and it is free, buffet of hams cheeses breads and other finger foods are put out for clients in establishments which are a cross between a pub and a restaruant. At this time many people visit, often with family including young children and grand parents, as well as friends, to have a quick drink, which is often a cup of espresso coffee. They stay only for a short time, then move on. In Florence, the only pub we found, well Chris did when I was out in the cold walking around a huge park, was an English Style pub on the suburbs side of the bridge which has all the jewellery shops. It was run by a couple of young chinese people. But of course we were expected to order a slice of pizza or something to eat!!

In Madrid, Spain, we noticed that in most bars and cafes people smoked. However we did find a chain of restaruants which serve great breakfasts at a reasonable price where no one smoked, and also a pub with a restaurant called TGIF meaning Thanks God its Friday where no smoking was allowed.

In Havana, Cuba, everybody smokes everywhere but because everything is open, the smoke does not hover inside. I also believe that the smell of cigars and the cigarettes are much more tolerable than the cigarettes we have in New Zealand. There is music everywhere in the pubs which are also cafes or restaurants, and everyone is expected to eat. And tip.

Now we are in Santiago, Chile. It is our first afternoon and we spent a long lunch outside a cafe, where we noticed, that people smoked over their meal. But it is so hot here, that I doubt if we will eat inside at all!

It will be great to enjoy our local pub scene in Auckland, New Zealand, where smoking is tolerated outside only. This means of course that when one goes walking along the street, one must remember not to breath in when passing a pub....

Pubs in London during winter

Wnen travelling to London in winter, whether is is to sight see, visit the museums, galleries, shop and take advantage of the winter sales, it is a good idea to relax and recouperate in some of the many pubs which are found on every corner. Not only are the London pubs smoke free, they are warm, well appointed, clean, tidy, and serve great food and beverages. The decor is very interesting, too. As well as the traditional English theme, the decor in some places is rather bohemian chic, or exotic. As soon as I have worked out how, I will include a couple of pics.

We were staying on the outskirts of London City, and most Londoners were out of town on holiday, so the pubs, were quiet, we were told. However, when we called into one or two after eating in the local restaurants, they were full.

It was interesting to note that only one or two London Pubs had music of any sort. Appararently a pub must get a licence to play, live, and even recorded music. it was most pleasant to enter a warm cosy pub after walking and shopping at the London winter sales, and all the interuption to sipping a local beverage was the quiet buzz of conversation.

Travelling around London

When visiting a city like London for more than the first time, it is a good idea to stay in a hotel in a different area for each visit. That way you can get to know the city better.

This time we stayed in a suburb just north of Mayfair around the corner from Madame Taussards Wax Works, in Marleybone. Our hotel is one of a small street of boutique hotels, and very well appointed. We even have our own computer!

The whole area is on the outskirts of the Centre of London. According to a story in a local pub, the area was owned and developed into a fashion urban district. it was orginially inherited by a Miss Henrietta Cavendish and her successors, through the female line, have carefully developed the area. We can step out of our London Hotel, and within a few minutes walk through the boutique shops and numerous cafes of St Christophers Place to Regent St. We are also around the corner from the handy Baker St Underground Station, which can take us anywhere around London.. There are also many bus services in the area. The best way to get a round easily is to purchase an 'Oyster Card' and load it up with the cost of the fares. That way you can jump on and off double decker busses, sit right up at the top, and travel around, enjoying the sights.

You will have noticed that we have not reported much on our our activities. That is because we have not done much! During our first visits we rushed around all the tourist traps - Tower of London, London Eye, The Tate Gallery, etc, but we do not have to do so this time.

Also, it is winter, and cold. As mentioned in previous blogs, winter is a great time to travel. Nobody is about! (Except at the London sales, of course!). So we do not have to jump out of bed early and travel for hours on the bus or train, and we do not have to queue!!

Most mornings we breakfast at 9am latest, then start the day when the winter sun and temperatures have risen, at about 10am. Some times we have not even decided what to do! In London we have been enjoying spending time with family and friends. The best place to do so is in one of the many English pubs, but that is another story!