Leizpeg - more than meets the passing eye....

Leizpeg

There is nothing like arriving to one’s accommodation only to realize that one’s computer is still on the train and on the way to Hamburg…..  I was most fortunate to speak to a very nice and helpful  person at the Information Desk who happened to speak English. Quick as a flash he was on the phone and my computer was back at the station within a few hours. He was a very interesting person who had worked for the railways for around 40 years in various capacities.  We had great conversations about all sorts  - trains, travelling, things in general and I was so grateful to him for his assistance as no one else gave a stuff!  It got very cold here when we arrived in Leizpeg so out came the just-in-case winter things from the bottom of our suitcases before we checked out the old town and to find somewhere for dinner. The place was cold and dead. No walking groups, no students hanging about – just a few passers by.  Yes it was Sunday but????? Monday arrived, and seemed to get colder as the day went on. However we inspected the city from 29 floors up in the Panorama Tower and wandered  around the small old town centre where very little was happening again – apart from one walking group in a St Nicholas’ Church, famous for the Peaceful Revolution on September 4, 1989, which helped bring down the Berlin wall. We booked a city tour in the afternoon which was very fortunate as it turned out because a very cold wet front came through during the whole trip so no photos....... The city is quite pretty -  nice buildings - lots of tree lined streets and parks. Fortunately the leaves were beginning  to fall or we would not have been able to see any of the sights! No decent shopping that we could see and sadly had no time to visit any museums or galleries however we have visited many in recent weeks.....

Would I go back again? Not on a one day visit!!  Leizpeg is apparently one of the most liveable cities in the region,  a city of canals, culture, education, history, art – our Art Hotel Featured works by the famous Anna Tessenow  - hippiness  - and apparently worth dipping one’s toe into for much longer than a day……

Hello Prague!!!

Prague – the city of spires, quaint buildings, and beer.  A walking city in the old town, many walking tour groups  - as  in other cities we visited – challenging, at times to negotiate around the narrow streets and footpaths, and at all times of the day and evening too!  We spent the first day exploring the Castle Complex including The Vitius Cathedral on the hill.  And the quaint golden street of tiny cottages converted into shops!!  Yes, I bought….. Thank you Tourist Guides for telling us to get the the tram to the top of the village, as everything sloped downhill,  eventually ending at the river level – hubby does not do hills….. A quick trot around the township in that quaint area revealed a bookshop of English only books – and very well stocked too, it was, and a visit to the John Lennon Peace wall to battle with all the young folks taking ‘selfies’ – and yes, I took one - then a stroll over 13^th Century Charles Bridge with it’s 31 statues – mingling with the crowds and portrait sketchers. The old city was alive – with many tourists – walking groups and others – the large square was full of them – and it was a squeeze to walk past them to peek in the many shops in the narrow cobbled streets –but we did find the ‘local pub’ we were recommended – but too crowded at that time. After a delightful boat trip on the Vltava River, our last visit on our first day in this quaint old town centre was up the town hall tower to view the city – but look – where have all the crowds gone?  The World’s Oldest Astronomical Clock around the corner – and there was everybody with their cellphones…….

Saturday – what shall we do – ah yes – the synagogue at the Jewish quarter – oops – it was their Sabbath!! We had heard a lot about St Agnes so went to visit her convent.  Founded in 1231 by Agnes of Bohemia the monastery of the  ‘Poor Clares of the Order of Saint Clare and Franciscans’  became a huge complex over time.  Today it is filled with a most impressive collection of medieval art works and a modern sculpture garden. The day became busier and busier…. After declining a trip on a mobile bar on which everyone had to pedal to get around, we repaired to a local stationary pub to sample the local beer and fare, then checked out the Charles Bridge and Town Hall Museums. In the Town Hall we noticed 12 little brightly coloured people all lined up to go on some sort of parade. Of course!  These were the 12 apostles who peeked out the windows when the Astronomical Clock chimed!  We got a much better view of them than the outsiders in the square did…. Now where was that local pub – ‘The Golden Tiger’ we were told about!  Ah yes – there – and there was room at a table!  The Pub had a ‘one’ rule – 1 type of beer  - Pilsner Urquell – 1 size mug - 500 litre, and  you are there for 1 half hour only – unless you were eating.  The place was like a busy train station!  Each beer took 4 seconds to pour, the service was Very Fast, and the mugs, once used were rinsed and filled again. Battling back to the old Square and oh look – a triple bill Art Exhibition!  Andy Warhol, Edvard Munch and Salvador Dalí!  What a feast!  And music to match……

Prague – we enjoyed you so much!  The old city, the market, and the people we met!  We might be back to explore more of you….

Hello to the Elegant City of Vienna

My illusions of Vienna ie Strauss, castles etc - and I had done no research before we arrived- were shattered when we arrived at a modern railway station and passed many modern and not old at all buildings. However on investing events we discovered that an Octoberfest was occurring nearby - and yes they were in full swing....

Vienna is very flat with lots of cycleways which seem to be very well used. We spent the day in the Many Museums area, visiting some. All elegant buildings  - The Wein (World) Museum was just that. It included items stolen or taken from or gifted to, countries all around the world including NZ. James Cook featured a lot in the Poynesion section. Some of the very old Maori items on disply were pilfered by an Austrian guy, I think he was - will find out his name- he was hated because he took every momento he could find, out of NZ. Apparently this Museum  works closely with Te Papa and helped with the recent return of the Maori Heads to NZ. Linking the Museums were many upmarket shops- don’t know how Zara, H&M got there, or Maccers - and well manicured gardens. Lunch was awesome best nachos ever!! Off to do Italian now....

Hello Budapest!!!

On our first day in Budapest we visited the Hospital in The Rock. Not many people seem to know about this historical gem, it seemed. The instruments and working conditions of those times would be of much interest to people in the medical industry, I suspect! A very interesting display was about what would happen if a nuclear bomb was dropped today. Alongside were works of art about the bombings in Japan and the distress of the people - very graphic and touching.

For the remainder of the day we wandered about the 

It  was a huge walking day on our second and last day in Budapest. We took the furnicular to the Buda Castle in which a huge variety of Museums are housed. I took a quick peek at the late Frida Kahlo Exhibition and Artworks – what an influential person she was and still is! Oops -  we forgot the synagogues are not open Saturdays!! So we missed inspecting the world’s second biggest. But we did inspect those shoes at the rivers edge -  a most moving memorial, I felt. Some people had no idea what they were about and there were some exclamations of shock from some when they read the plaque. 

After lunching at another Ricks Cafe we trundled off to the Jewish Quarter and the ‘Ruins.’ It was hard to find the eclectic shops and pubs we had expected to come across at first – and we were not going to take the 45Euro pp walking  trip to find out!! Eventually we came across an interesting market in an eclectic ‘Restaurant/Bar Alley’ where I met a talented artist and elderly cat owner from Bolognia. You will see some of her unique artwork at  home upon our return…..