Our London and Cambridge Adventure between Christmas and New Year 2015

Following our trip to Italy we spent several days in Roydon, Essex, enjoying the balmy winter weather, family, life in a small village, and the local pub fare.  However whenever we left this quiet sanctuary, it seemed as if all the London crowds travelled with us!  For example, we travelled by train to the Westfield Shopping Centre in Stratford but by lunchtime all of London was there too! On another day we secretly escaped to Cambridge – but that did not work either!  Crowds of locals and tourists were everywhere, resulting in queues to get into the famous Eagle Tavern with its world famous ceiling in the RAF bar, the room in which the 'secret of life' was announced and even its own ghost!

 There was a crowd at the Ronald Searle exhibition at the Fitzwilliam Museum which was not helpful when viewing his and the works of other caricaturists of the 20^th century.  A magnificent building that the Fitzwilliam Museum is housed in – we did not have time to view all the works – but the décor was quite something.  A day of wandering around, lunching at the famous Fitzwilliam Café  - luckily we did not have to queue here to enjoy their delicious food – was ample to get a feel of this renowned University City. Sadly, not one of the University buildings was open for us to inspect, nor was the Polar Museum, which was recommended to us.

Back in London we travelled several times into the central city, to Foyles Bookshop, Rays Jazz Shop – both in new, better designed buildings, shopping, and strolling along in the early evening, enjoying the beautiful Street Christmas decorations.

On our last full day in London, which happened to be the first rainy day of our holiday trip so far, we decided to visit the British Museum. However all the London crowds were there first…… We joined the quickly moving queue into the building and enjoyed a lovely lunch upstairs before enjoying the exhibits.

Most notable of the items we had time to see was the Rosetta Stone and the story of hieroglyphs and the Parthenon sculptures gallery. We would certainly return to the British Museum and view more of its exhibitions!

Last day in Pisa, and Italy, and the Ryanair Adventure

Up the leaning tower of Pisa to view the hazy city, a crazy pose in front of the Leaning Tower – a must, apparently after watching everyone else do so - visiting the cathedral, a walk around the Pisa's Cathedral Square and it is time to depart or the Galileo Galilei Airport.

 Uh oh, what a scene – why are the xray machines not working?  Why are there crowds standing around not moving? Delays?  Cancellations ?? Fog???  We never saw any clouds – just distant haze….  Old radar?  Over cautious pilots?  We spoke to many interesting people during our long wait – and heard about lives, families, work etc and the inconvenience.  Very late in the evening we were all informed that there would be no more flights and that there were stretchers upstairs. Really??? Sure enough, a large room was crammed with them, each stretcher accompanied with a thick orange plastic wrapped blanket.  This was not good enough!  Wait, our flight is being called – a bus to a hotel?  That’s better!   After travelling for an hour, at 2.30am we arrived at a Novotel Hotel at an airport north of Florence.  At this striking but very old hotel, we were quickly registered and departed to our warm room of 2 single beds with one small pillow each and a very stained, cigarette butted carpet, for 4 hours sleep before breakfast and an hour’s trip back to the Pisa Airport.  London, here we come 18 hours later – at last!!!!

Our Bologna Adventure - day 1

It was a treat to be introduced to the local fare at one of Bologna’s better restaurants opposite ‘ the seven churches’ - Sette Chiese – or Basilica di Santo Stefano.

These buildings are a conglomeration of various architectural styles, spanning over several centuries. The most interesting item to me was a dome, constructed of small house building sized red bricks, spiraling round and round until one oblong brick closed the gap at the top. The large nativity scene figurines, mostly gold in colour, were made either from paper mache, porcelain or stone.  The display was attended by a lady who kept rearranging the many dried and live greenery accompaniments, including lavender, giving the exhibition a fresh peaceful aroma.

Bologna, a city of towers, porticos, and many beautiful shops  – which made the items in Zara look very average –  is a great place to walk around. Amongst the shops are very old buildings, mainly churches but worth visiting.  That evening we noticed many young people heading into the Cathedral of Bologna, a large church surrounded by shops.  Maybe a carol service?  There was a poster outside, advertising a ‘notable’ tenor and organist.  So we strolled inside, waiting while the thousand or so queues of people seated themselves, filling about half the cathedral, only to find out that it was a prayer service, honouring the youth of the city.

The Jamiesons Adventure at Midleton, Ireland

Well worth visiting is the Jameson Heritage Centre in Midleton, Cork, in the South of Ireland.

The heritage buildings, perfectly restored, relate the way whiskey was produced in the past, including the secrets which made Jamieson’s Whiskey so renowned today. After touring, visitors arrive at the pub where one is expected to drink whiskey, not beer - and where they can have a whiskey tasting or sample one of the many ways that Jamieson’s whiskey can be enjoyed.

An ideal way to commence our Cork adventure before travelling to the Carrigaline Court Hotel.

A glimpse of Waterford, Ireland and its Layers of History

Waterford, the oldest city in Ireland has a fascinating history, and thanks to the Waterford Chamber of Commerce, which has its own stories since its inception 225 years ago, we were treated to a tantalizing glimpse of its layers. The Vikings first settled near Waterford in 853 and after an exchange of various raiders, resettled at Waterford in 914. Over the centuries various visitors, including invaders and even royalty have influenced and shaped the city to what it is today. One of the oldest and most distinctive buildings in Waterford is the circular Reginald’s Tower, reported to be built at the beginning the 13th century. Nearby, and of great interest to we visitors from New Zealand, was a round blue plaque on one of the old buildings which stated that this was where William Hobson, the first Governor of New Zealand was born.

These days most people relate to Waterford because of the Waterford Crystal brand, so it was natural that we should visit this factory. Founded in 1783, the mission of Waterford Crystal was to have crystal ‘as fine a quality as anywhere in Europe.’ Along the way there was a financial downfall and Waterford Crystal and its crystal making techniques were dormant for around a century until, in the 1940’s and 1950’s a group of businessmen revived the industry. In 2009 the business was forced into receivership and after much negotiation the current Waterford Crystal factory visitor center was opened in Waterford. It is most interesting for visitors to view the beechwood molds, named after people such as Justin Timberlake, the crystal craft exhibitions, crystal blowers and the dramatic crystal trophies and artifacts they were producing. After visiting Waterford Crystal we then explored the Viking Triangle and other historical buildings in Waterford, feeling most grateful to have the opportunity to capture a mere glimpse of the history and architecture of this most intriguing city, before moving on to our next adventure in Ireland.

Ah - Naples, Pompei and Sorrento

Our cruise ship the Costa Serena's last port of call was Naples. Anxious to view Mt Vesuvious we were up early an high up on deck, however mist shrouded this famous mountain and instead we were reduced to viewing the many superyachts lounging about -ready to hibernate for winter. Soon we were on a bus travelling to Sorrento, a quaint seaside tourist town. We left the port, passing many very shabby apartment buildings in the Naples city centre, boarded a train and travelled for about an hour through the Naples suburbs and surrounds. The land is very fertile, our guide informed us and it was interesting to see gardens, lemon tree plantations and glass houses dotted everywhere throughout the suburbs. Upon our arrival at Sorrento, we were directed to a place to have a 'technical' stop, which meant a toilet and coffee break. The local coffee is excellent here. I think it is Neopolitan. It has a unique taste and I have to say that coffee has never tasted the same since - it was so delicious! Off we went on our walking tour. Sorrento is old historic, quaint and very tourist orientated. The streets are narrow - many are just walkways and the whole place is geared for local and upmarket shopping. As it was near Xmas the town was decorated - Christmas trees, leafy bowers under windows and Xmas lights everywhere! It must look so picturesque at night!
Eventually we arrived at the water's edge. Er - not exactly - we were about 50 metres above the water on top of a rocky cliff. In Sorrento it is difficult to get to the sea. And there is no beach! Instead people have to pay to sunbathe on piers stretching over the beautiful, clear, blue waters. At last our walking tour ended -not surprisingly, at a pre arranged shop from where we could purchase almost anything made of and to do with lemons - from a huge array of sweets to lemoncellos presented in most decorative bottles, handcrafts and ornaments.

Thankfully we did not have much time to contribute to the local economy and shop - the prices were Definately for the Well Heeled Traveller, and soon we were back on the train. Oh, look! There are the ruins of Pompei! Why didn't we visit them? other Cruise Ship visitors confirmed what we suspected - one needed a whole day to inspect the genuine and replica ruins on display. I would like to come back to Naples and visit the Pompei ruins, and also inspect the city centre - a group of very tall newish glass buildings soaring like a sore tooth out of the eyesores of apartments in the suburbs by the port's edge.

And now it is back to the Costa Serena and get ready to finish our Italiabn cruise ship adventure at Slovena.

More snow in Milano and our last day there

On our last morning in Milan we awoke to even more snow. Thick coatings everwhere!

A different type of winter magic to St Petersburg.

Once again we trudged along in the crunchy and even thicker snow to see the Last Supper fresco. We had booked well in advance, as one must, to see this particular work of art, and the viewing was very controlled. Our group stood silently in awe, gazing at this famous work, painstakingly restored, along with a nearby fresco from the same era, by Olivetti. Well worth the visit.

On the way back to the hotel to await the taxi to take us to the station - too far away to walk trundling our suitcases, I espied a couple of dresses - on sale, of course, in a shop window. ¨Wait here¨I said to Chris. ¨I will not be long.¨

In I went and said to the shop attendant. ¨I want to try on these two dresses and I am in a hurry.¨

¨Let me take your coat¨ he said.¨
Acutally I have three¨I replied.

Önly three? He demures....

A few minutes later Chris and I are back to the hotel, yes, with a dress, and waiting for a taxi to take us along the very snowy streets to the station for our new adventure in Venice. We had originally planned to drive there with friends, via a business call by Chris at Frienze, but this was now not possible because of the snow.

Milano looed even more spectaular today. The traffic, both moving and stationery, had about half a metre of snow on top, the telegraph and tram wires were lined with snow, the large Christmas tree and the statue in the square looked even more dramatic, and the Duomo, with the extra coating of snow all its whitte and gold parapets, looked like a huge fancy Christening cake.

When we finally shused our way to the Milano railway station, the train timetables had been turned topsy turvy by the snowfalls. Some trains to Venice had been cancelled, and ours was delayed by an hour. The Milano Railway station is probably the worst station to stand in in the very cold. There is no shelter, no bars, or shops to pop in to to keep warm. There are only 2 - 3 stand up cafes where you can purchase a roll and a hot drink. These were kept very busy by people, like us, buying food to warm up!

At last, our train was ready and we were off!! And in good time, too, as we found out in the following days, as Milano got colder and whiter. The snow covered ground, as we travelled east towards Venicia, gradually changed from white christmas card scenery to fields and villages lightly covered with snow. Maybe we will have a white holiday in Venice!!

We arrived late in the afternoon at the Venicia Station. This station is like most other European ones - all from the same drawing board, most likely, and Venice is the the end of this particular line.

So it is a great pleasure and change to step out and gaze onto the Grand Canal with some of Venices. beautiful old buildings behind. And the sound of absense motor traffic! Apart frome th quiet purring of canal ferry traffic, of course.

Chris found, on the interet, a lovely hotel just around from the Venice Railway station, and it was very easy to find. In the past, we have stayed in the middle of the city, however the numbering of the buildings of the narrow streets can be rather confusing to new visitors to Venice.

To be continued.....

The best thing about visiting Museums in Winter part one

You may have noticed that we have been writing a lot about shopping in winter, which s a great thing to do as the winter sales are on, and also that they are warm, as are the streets outside, as compared to open spaces. But we have been visiting museums as well! Not only because they are warm, but is it seems to be what one does when visiting the northern part of the world from New Zealand.

After our St Petersburg visit, we did feel a little museumed out,but upon reflection, each museum had its own uniqueness, and even though one may not be interested in museums as such, they are certainly well worth a visit when passing by.

For example, walking to the St Petersburg War Memorial on a snowy blizzardy day gave us a vivid dramatic experience on what it was like for Russian soldiers during the wars.

The Grandeur of Catherine the Greats Summer Palace, situated just ourside St Petersburg, which displayed the golden and now completed replica of the Amber Room, the opulent decor and table settings, wall hangings and other items, even though the gardens were snow covered, showed us the luxuries of the royalty. And the Pushkin Palace next door was a more down to earth, homely contrast of how royalty used to live.

The Hermitage, with its 2 million plus exhibits had many interesting displays.We saw only a few of the most significant, thanks to our guide. Catherine the great, thanks to her art advisors collected a huge number of arts from all over Europe and further afield. There was room after room of original artworks by many famous artists over the centuries including several halls of works by the french impressionalists. The Crouching Boy Sculputure by Michaalango is beautiful. Treausures, artefacts, tapestries.... all housed in a beautiful building in which each room is being restored to its original condition. Going outside into the bleak snowy square where the infamous Bloody Sunday incident happened all those years ago, it is hard to imagine that only a few weeks ago, a concert was performed by Elton John!!

A notable contrast to the European Art at L'Hermitage was the Museum of Russian Art. Here we saw many works which were more 'down to earth' than those of teh European Artists. The most interesting exhibition there was one of the 'Old believers' - Artists that kept alive styles of art of 'traditional Christianity,' a movement which for many years was kept underground. Artists seldom signed their work. The artworks and other treasures on display here, seemed to me, to represent the 'real' Russia. As in other palaces, all the rooms were being restored to thier original luxurious condition.

Not far away was the Church of Spilled Blood. It was decided by, I am not sure whom now, that a memorial be erected on the spot where a king was slain. This huge St Petersburg monument was constructed at the beginning og the 20th century, to be used once a year. In the 1930's becuase of the politics of the time it was shut down and used as a warerhouse. Recently after 15 years of refurbishment back to its stunning original condition The Church of Spilled Blood was opened to the public and today is on the must see list for visitors to St Petersberg.

Winter is definately the best time to visit museums in Russia

On to the Museums of London. We found out, in the Time Magazine, about the Bhuzantine Exhibition at the Royal Academy, and booked in. Very worthwhile - representing all facets of art from everywhere even on loan from museums we had previously visited. It was interesting to note that there was not contraversial subject displayed - I suppose this is meant to be a family exhibition - whereas I would suspect that some people might be shocked at seeing certain subject matter at other European and St Petersburg Museums.

No, we did not, but should have, visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, as well as the Charles Darwin London Commerative one, and maybe, or maybe not, Madam Toussards, but we did not. Our main purpose in London was to spend time with family and friends.

Oh, and the best reason for visiting museums in winter?? Part 2 to come....

Travelling around London

When visiting a city like London for more than the first time, it is a good idea to stay in a hotel in a different area for each visit. That way you can get to know the city better.

This time we stayed in a suburb just north of Mayfair around the corner from Madame Taussards Wax Works, in Marleybone. Our hotel is one of a small street of boutique hotels, and very well appointed. We even have our own computer!

The whole area is on the outskirts of the Centre of London. According to a story in a local pub, the area was owned and developed into a fashion urban district. it was orginially inherited by a Miss Henrietta Cavendish and her successors, through the female line, have carefully developed the area. We can step out of our London Hotel, and within a few minutes walk through the boutique shops and numerous cafes of St Christophers Place to Regent St. We are also around the corner from the handy Baker St Underground Station, which can take us anywhere around London.. There are also many bus services in the area. The best way to get a round easily is to purchase an 'Oyster Card' and load it up with the cost of the fares. That way you can jump on and off double decker busses, sit right up at the top, and travel around, enjoying the sights.

You will have noticed that we have not reported much on our our activities. That is because we have not done much! During our first visits we rushed around all the tourist traps - Tower of London, London Eye, The Tate Gallery, etc, but we do not have to do so this time.

Also, it is winter, and cold. As mentioned in previous blogs, winter is a great time to travel. Nobody is about! (Except at the London sales, of course!). So we do not have to jump out of bed early and travel for hours on the bus or train, and we do not have to queue!!

Most mornings we breakfast at 9am latest, then start the day when the winter sun and temperatures have risen, at about 10am. Some times we have not even decided what to do! In London we have been enjoying spending time with family and friends. The best place to do so is in one of the many English pubs, but that is another story!