A day on the Water, Venice, Italy, Day 2

There is nothing better for maritime lovers to be out on the water, in any capacity, even while on holiday! Today we  boarded our ferry and set off for our water adventure in Venice. The day was so – unusually, we found out – warm and balmy – the water was so calm that we could have reached out and trailed our fingers in the water, and the sky was so blue….  We travelled past the extensive mud flats with a few birds flying here and there, and landed on the formally arranged tree bordered Cemetery Island. Extensive, well maintained, and still to be completely filled, this sanctuary presented a preliforia of family histories of the area – some still in their telling. The monuments also offered a history of memorials over time, in the area.  After a time of peace and reflection we cruised to Murano, an island not only renowned for its lace making, but for its colourful houses lining its canals. We all disembarked, admiring the colourful buildings with their closed doors and drapes, suspecting that their inhabitants might have felt like goldfish in a bowl! However we  tourists all strolled merrily by, occasionally dropping into the few lace and souvenir shops that were still open during this off-season, admired the island’s thick furred cats and all arrived at the one restaurant that was open to enjoy lunch  off an Italian styled family run ‘international’ menu which very efficiently catered for the huge variety of ethnic groups that called by. We thoroughly recommend the soup of the day! Upon our return to the ‘mainland’ we chattered with some very interesting people from China and Germany who had  ‘popped over to Venice’ for a few days break. Oh if only we could do the same……  We concluded this lovely autumn day by strolling  past St Mark's Square through Venice’s very exclusive hotel and shopping area, noting that the Christmas decorations were appropriate to people who might shop in this area. For our last supper in Venice we dined like royalty at another family restaurant - Trattoria Vittoria that we discovered upon another visit and again enjoyed the décor, authentic Italian food and hospitality.  Next day we travelled by train -  you might have noticed that pic of the water as we travelled along the causeway from Venice on to Bologna – our next adventure in Italy…..

Travelling around Venice Part 1

My first and  and all time favourite impression of Venice is walking out of the Santa Lucia Railway station, which is just like any other railway station in Italy, into a completely different world. Different buildings, different transport system, different noises – the quiet purrs of canal boats, the low murmurings of people, and No Traffic! 

Today was even better   - there were hardly any people around!   We checked into Hotel Abbazia, one of our favourite  hotels  - beautiful rooms, and foyers and better still, handy to the railway station so you cannot get lost looking for it – on other occasions we have spent much time looking for hotels along Venice’s many narrow and identical (to us) ‘road’ ways – never again……

It is always a delight to stroll around Venice, especially when there are no crowds!  As always upon our visits here, we discover new places.   Today’s discovery was one of a chain of  small Irish pubs!  Not quite the same as other Irish pubs world wide but definitely Irish, warm, friendly and with reasonably priced beer and cheap sandwiches -  ideal for a walking city!  And yes, we were doing a lot of walking on this day – St Marks Square – still no crowds apart from a few groups of tourists, my favourite lingerie shop, the Black Cat  Shop for our Black Cat Calendar, the Rialto bridge and markets and well, generally strolling – oh look – there is another of those little Irish pubs……..

A day's Adventure in Trieste

Now that we are in Trieste, Italy, after overcoming our jetlag in London, it feels as if our adventure has really begun! As you can see in the pics. The weather in Trieste is overcast and very balmy. Our first ‘port of call’ was the Museo de Mare – the Trieste Maritime Museum.  Trieste was one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when it was the principal outlet to the sea of the Habsburg Empire. After it became part of Italy in 1920 Trieste’s ship building industry flourished. This small, well presented museum features a huge variety of models of vessels in the area and how they were made  - diagrams and tools.  Next we strolled through the narrow streets of the old  town and had a relaxing break in at the Cafe Tommaseo, one of  several historic  cafes in the area, all of which have their own special stories. Later we travelled by bus down the coast to the Mirimar Castle, perched on a prominent point on the west side of Trieste.   Specifically designed by and for Ferdinand Maximilian in 1860, today the castle and park grounds are open to the public and the surrounding waters are a well protected maritime reserve.  Back to the city and a trip on a local bus which wound through Trieste’s narrow old town streets hairpinning up the hill to the 14^th century Castle Quisto, set in parklands above the city. However it was closed…… Having noticed several flights of stairs on our bendy bus route, we stepped down to a town square to find a street market in full swing, and everyone seemed to be there, enjoying hot beverages, beers, food and gossiping.  Ideal on a balmy autumn early evening - especially with a chocolate waffle in hand! The day finished with  a light meal at the comfortable Pizzeria Crystal.  Trieste done!  Now to our hotel to prepare for our Venice adventure tomorrow……..

Our Venice Adventure and how to follow directions

Everytime we travel to Venice we enjoy a different adventure and this was no different. This was to be q short stay an overnight one before we boarded the Costa Serena for our cruise ship adventure.

By chqnce we heard that the last day of the Famous Biennalle Exhibition was on. Artists from eighty coutries including two from New Zealand were exhibiting so we went along to have a quick look. As everyone knows we all have different ideas about what modern art is and all I can say is that there was so,ething for everyone there. Take a look at my pics and you will see what I mean. Having enjoyed the exhibits at the main venue we set off to find the New Zealand Artists located at other venues in Venice. However we had forgotten than Venicians cannot or do not give precise directions. The best you might get from them is an area or locality. A main street might be a narrow alleyway; and left at the bridge might mean three bridges down the next canal. Needless to say after battling hundreds of locals and tourists Sunday walking we ran out of time to find them. Oh and did I mention it took an hour to find the locql Jazz Club which was five minutes away..... And speaking of getting lost more about that in the cruise ship item

Winter Holiday in Venice - the best time to go in our opinion

We awoke on our first morning in Venice to tiny snow flakes falling into the garden courtyard outside our hotel window.

Another white holiday! And in Venicia! Wow!!

But no, the day was not cold enough, and the streets and steps had been well coated with rock salt to prevent ice forming.

On this our third trip to Venice, we walked everywhere, rather than hopping on and off the Grande Canale Ferries. There I found another reason for holidaying in Europe in winter - there were very few people there! We could wander down all the narrow streets withouth pushing past people coming the other way. We could do all the window shopping we wanted, without looking over people's heads if we could. We discovered many restaurants and cafes, and did not have to queue.

Best of all, St Marc's Square was not chocker full of people and pidgeons! We could stand in the middle of the square and gaze around us. We had decided to visit the Cathedral, as last time we came to St Mark's Square, in the summer, there was a huge queue of tourists to get in, so we visited the Doges Palace next door, instead. Today, there were no queues at all, so we could wander in and gaze at the Byzantuim style decor and art, at our leisure. Upstairs we went out onto the narrow balcony, which gave us an unobstucted view of of St Marcs Square, without pushing past people to take pictures. You may recall in a recent blog about the 4 horses at the National Geographic Shop and Museum not far from Piccadilly Circus in London, which were made of driftwood and modelled on the very same horse on this balcony. Today, replica horses are of this balcony the originalss, made of bronze, have been restored and are now inside. Also inside accompanying the broze horses, is an excellent exhibition of the history of the cathedral, its contsruction and resoration, art, articfacts, and tapestries.I am positive that this exhibition was not here when we first visited, around eight years ago. What is most interesting, and we found this also in other exhibitions about restorations, whether they be art or buildings, is the technology involved and the methods of the restorations, from the 'facelifts' to the preservation and restoration of the underneath materials which we do not see.

No, we did not visit Harry's Bar this time or go up the Tower, from which one gets an awesome view of of Venice and its surrounds, but we did meander through the markets and shops at the Rialto Bridge, as well as through the many squares and narrow alleyways admiring all the beautiful, but old appartment buildings, hotels and palaces. Of course it is hard to ignore the shabbiness of some,and the pealing off of plaster of others. But Venice is not crunhbling down into the sea. One only has to look beside many the shabby doors to find modern security keyboards for owners to get to their apartments. Like many cities, in Venice buidling facades cannot be changed, but behind the facades, if the real estate advertisements are true, apartments do seem to have all the mod cons.

We noticed several changes in Venezia since our first visit, 8 years ago. Because the damage sustained in the 1976, or round that time, high tides and flooding, Venice, along with Florence, sustained much damage and lost many art works and treasures. As a result various localworld wide groups, including "Save Venice" fundraised and restored many buildings in Venice. I recall one group which selected 10 Churches to restore, and visitors were encouraged to visit all ten and, of course, donate to the resotrations. I did not see and reference to the project this time so am not sure if the programme has been completed or not. But the clock tower, with its two men striking the bell on the top, has been finished. And a new bridge, located to the right of the railway station has appeared. This means that people coming to Venice by car, or bus across the causeway, do not have to walk miles to reach certain parts of the city. And what I always liked, when walking out of the station at Venice, was gazing across the canal at this run down church building. Today it is covered with neting for restoration, and topped with a huge advertisement for a fashion company!! One hopes that the company is paying a signifant amount to place such an eyesore for visitors wanting to feast their eyes on 'old Venizia.'

Winter definately is the best time to visit Venice. Certainly it is cold. I understand it can be foggy at times. But it is warm between the buildings and in the shops. There are still some hardy Gondoliers about, if one wants a cold romantic ride around the canals. It is also the best place from which to take photos from the water.

But we did wonder - what is the winter night life like in Venice? We discovered that the Restaurant promoting live Jazz Music every night means every night from March to November. Then, quite by chance we found out. One evening, which happened to be a Friday, we thought we would wander to the Rialto Bridge Area to relax inside (too cold outside by the canal) for dinner. We heard modern music, and turned towards it. There in this square, was a lot of people, in coats, hats and scarves, all standing up outside in the cold, all drinking and talking. The source the music was from one of several bars. Consisting of a counter, stock and no seating, these bars all served drinks to clients who stood outside. We found a bar which had seating inside, and squeezed in, sat down, and watched the activities. Outside, all the people seemed to come and go really quickly. We wondered why as we sat in the warm, enjoying our campary and soda's. Later when we left the bar, we found out why. Outside the temperature was cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey.....*

* nautical saying - google it to find out what it means....



We found

More snow in Milano and our last day there

On our last morning in Milan we awoke to even more snow. Thick coatings everwhere!

A different type of winter magic to St Petersburg.

Once again we trudged along in the crunchy and even thicker snow to see the Last Supper fresco. We had booked well in advance, as one must, to see this particular work of art, and the viewing was very controlled. Our group stood silently in awe, gazing at this famous work, painstakingly restored, along with a nearby fresco from the same era, by Olivetti. Well worth the visit.

On the way back to the hotel to await the taxi to take us to the station - too far away to walk trundling our suitcases, I espied a couple of dresses - on sale, of course, in a shop window. ¨Wait here¨I said to Chris. ¨I will not be long.¨

In I went and said to the shop attendant. ¨I want to try on these two dresses and I am in a hurry.¨

¨Let me take your coat¨ he said.¨
Acutally I have three¨I replied.

Önly three? He demures....

A few minutes later Chris and I are back to the hotel, yes, with a dress, and waiting for a taxi to take us along the very snowy streets to the station for our new adventure in Venice. We had originally planned to drive there with friends, via a business call by Chris at Frienze, but this was now not possible because of the snow.

Milano looed even more spectaular today. The traffic, both moving and stationery, had about half a metre of snow on top, the telegraph and tram wires were lined with snow, the large Christmas tree and the statue in the square looked even more dramatic, and the Duomo, with the extra coating of snow all its whitte and gold parapets, looked like a huge fancy Christening cake.

When we finally shused our way to the Milano railway station, the train timetables had been turned topsy turvy by the snowfalls. Some trains to Venice had been cancelled, and ours was delayed by an hour. The Milano Railway station is probably the worst station to stand in in the very cold. There is no shelter, no bars, or shops to pop in to to keep warm. There are only 2 - 3 stand up cafes where you can purchase a roll and a hot drink. These were kept very busy by people, like us, buying food to warm up!

At last, our train was ready and we were off!! And in good time, too, as we found out in the following days, as Milano got colder and whiter. The snow covered ground, as we travelled east towards Venicia, gradually changed from white christmas card scenery to fields and villages lightly covered with snow. Maybe we will have a white holiday in Venice!!

We arrived late in the afternoon at the Venicia Station. This station is like most other European ones - all from the same drawing board, most likely, and Venice is the the end of this particular line.

So it is a great pleasure and change to step out and gaze onto the Grand Canal with some of Venices. beautiful old buildings behind. And the sound of absense motor traffic! Apart frome th quiet purring of canal ferry traffic, of course.

Chris found, on the interet, a lovely hotel just around from the Venice Railway station, and it was very easy to find. In the past, we have stayed in the middle of the city, however the numbering of the buildings of the narrow streets can be rather confusing to new visitors to Venice.

To be continued.....

A winter shopping experience in London and a Surprise Exhibition

Shopping at the winter sales in London is an experience not to be missed.

Not only is it warm in the shops, there are plenty of bargains to be had.

The best time to go is ealy in the morning, before the locals and visitors come out in droves later in the day, and then you can try anything on, without queueing!

Window shopping is great too. The clothes in the central London area, especially in the more expensive shops, are beautifully made and presented. But one must remember that we do not need warm winter wear, London style, in New Zealand!

The biggest surprise we found, was the National Geographic Shop, not far from Piccadilly Circus. Only open for 7 weeks, since just before December 2008, it is the flagship shop for National Geographic, to raise awareness and funds for the National Geographic mission to fund its research and travel activities.

In it we found 4 horses, life size, made of driftwood, which were constructed in honour of the 4 horses in St Marks Square, Venice. As we watched the sold sign was placed on them - at £5,800 each!

Also in the shop was a photographic exhibition - photos of famous National Geographic people, including Our Sir Edmund Hilary and Jacques Cousteau, logoed clothes, binoculars and other items needed for expeditions, adventure gear, books, maps, gifts - and unless you purchase something, it is all free!

But you might like to buy a delicious hot chocolate at the National Geographic Chocolate shop.....