Our adventure at Cinque Terre

Why go to this lovely world heritage site in winter?  Why not? Actually, I would go again, at any time, and stay longer, and swim and walk....
 The dramatic cliff scape, the buildings are perched on top of each other going up the mountains and are such lovely colours - I wonder if they were always so colourful???

There were no ferries at this time of year  for us enjoy the dramatic views of  villages from the ocean, so we travelled by train to Le Spezia, the main port of the area, then changed to a local train. We first visited Monterosso –the furthest away and with a lovely long beach. Oh, the openness,the freedom, the fresh air and the quiet wave shushing after all those days of narrow smoke stinking streets!!  Bliss….   feeling of freedom...... This and another village got flooded out in 2011, apparently due to global warming, however all the locals got together and fixed everything so today, one would never know.    A quick look around the town at street level and on the train to the smaller village of Vernazza to watch a fishing dingy being hoisted up from the waters far below….  Travelling to Europe in Winter, is so cool - there are no crowds or queues.   However an Asian tour group joined us on the train and we wondered why they did not get off at Corniglia.  This was the only town that had a ‘Welcome to our Village’ sign  and a barking welcome dog - and we soon found out why – there was a switchback series of many stairs to the village high in the hills!  Nothing was open, being the time of year, but thankfully there was a bus service to deliver us to the station down below. Corniglia – visited!! We decided to  eat at Manorola, perched on the edge of the cliff and discovered that the Asian Tour group was dining at a very nice looking restaurant in the main street. As we had plenty of time  for the train before travelling to the next village we elected to settle in for a long lunch of local fare  -  a very good decision, we discovered.  At Cinque Terre one is expected to go walking, we knew, so we elected to do the shortest walk from Riomaggore. However a few minutes into the walk we discovered a very padlocked gate and a notice informing us that the walkway was closed due to slips…….

We then decided to walk up what we thought was the main street only to discover that this was a well  off residential area – odd!!  Back to the station to find an interesting wall lined tunnel  of art leading to the busy main street leading upwards……but we have done enough ups!  Now when is the train leaving to Le Spezia?????

Winter Holiday in Florence and more about Museums.

Gosh, I am so please that we decided to spend some of our Italain Winter Holiday in Florenza!

Here is was a little warmer than during our stays at Milano and Venice and it was very pleasant exploring the streets. Even though the skies were clear and the sun was shining, I have to say, I felt a little claustrophobic. I suspect it was because the sun was low, being winter, and it did not reach the streets. Also there are not many open spaces in the city centre. But we did note that a large area, near to the railway station was being refurbished.

There is not much traffic in Florenza - some of the streets are for walking only, while others seemed to be for servcive vehicles only. In fact when we viewed the city from the top of the Duomo belltower,which was over 400 steps to get there, it was apparent that the limited traffic zone extended for quite a large area. So it was ideal for exloring the city on foot, and to admire the old, but very neat and tidy variety of buildings. It was interesting to note that on some of the older buildings, all of which seemed to be in perfectly restored condition, had areas of the outer walls exposed so we could view the construction methods.

More by accident than by design, we ended up spending a lot ot time in museums during our stay in Florence,

We had made a reservation to view the Galleria at the Uffuzi Palace, and it took all morning to view the beautiful artworks on display. Most had been restored, as had a good part of the building.There was an interesting Exhibtion by Giovanni Francesco (Guecino) - 1591 - 1666, of his sketches and watercolours in brown wash.

Artwork in the Gallerail had been collected since the 17th century by the Medusa family, and feature was a special Medusa exhitibition was the famous Medusa Head with the snakes emerging from it.

We also visited the Museo d'ell Opera di Santa Maria del Torre, then a museum dedicated to the history of the Duomo. It has been in existance since 1891.

Even though the first stone was laid in 1296, the facade was not finished until the early 1900's due to various political reasons over the years. Many architects submitted designs for the facade, all of which were on display. There were also many statues and artifacts all of which were in the Duomo at some time or other.

Michangelo and Brunelleschi were two of the many famous artists who worked on the Duomo during its 700 years of construction.

We visited the Accadamea where the statue of 'David' resides, along with his 4 unfinished slaves. The Accadamea had much of the art collected during thte Medusa Dynasty, including a musical instrument collection and the worlds oldest violin. The exhibition was great until we entered a large hall chocker full of replicas of statues, including hundreds of busts lining the very high walls! A bit of overkill, we felt, as we quickly wandered through and on to other things.

Before I move away from talking about exhibtitions and museums, I have to repeat that there were few few people and tour groups around, so we could see everything at our leisure, in particular, the statue of David, around which everyone would spend hours gazing at. Winter is such a great time to do the 'indoors' of European Cities - museums are warm and comfortable.

As in all the other cities we visited during this winter holiday, the winter sales were on and lots of people were shopping. But that is another story.....

Look who goes Shopping at the Florence winter sales - not ladies but men!!!

Looking for an Italian Man?

Go to Florence in January!!!

For January is when the Pitti Uomo Fashion Shows start. And that is when the men come to Florence!

The Fashion Event first started in 1951, and influentials travelling to the Paris fashion events were persuaded to come to Florenza. Since then the annual shows have had a significant effect on fashion and Italy's international image.

One evening, when we returning from our explorations over the bridge through the city towards our hotel near the railway station, we noticed something unusual about the shoppers.

They were all men! All well dressed, all ages, all good looking, that I could see.


Gosh, its not just raining men, it is pouring!! Crowds of men in the streets, in the shops trying on garments. Queueing to get into the Opening Night Cocktail Parties. In the bars and cafes. Queues of men everywhere. And in all the hotels which is why we could not book into our favoutite hotel as it cranked its rates up especially for the event.

So ladies, if you are travelling to Europe in winter to take advantage of the winter sales, and would like to meet a man or six, come to Florence in January!!!

No queues anywhere in Milan on this winter day except....

On our first morning morning in Milano we woke up to very unusual quiet noise outside.

No footprints of people trotting to work, no noisy traffic queueing, even though we were not on a main street.

Then we looked out of the window.

A winter scene awaited us. Huge soft billowy snow flakes! Falling swirling, softly down. It had obviously been snowing for a while, as everything had about 6 inches, or a palm span, of snow - trees, parked cars fences, footpaths, motor cycles - wait til you see the pics when I work out how to load them! What was most amusing that nobody pushed the snow off their vehicles before driving off! So all moving traffic had a thick layer of snow of top - like a layer of icing.

After breakfast Chris and I set off walking in the snow to our arranged time to view the famous Last Supper fresco which we anticipated was about half an hours walk away.

What fun it was, walking in the crunchy snow! I have not done so for years!! We soon found out that it is best to walk where someone else has been so that we do not walk into pot holes, and that the salt which is liberally scattered everwhere quickly turns the snow to much wet slush in the gutters and to ice on the roads where no ice has been scattered.

To our surprise, we were a day early for our booking!! So back to trudging along the Milano city pavements in the snow - fun..... Then we discovered a very interesting art exhibition by a renowned Italian Artist Sifano (pardon spelling - will change it in due course) of his work from the 1960´s to 1990s. Some of it was nostalgic because during this time the role and acceptance of modern art, along with protests etc in the sixties and seventies was rather contraversal. I am sure that there is a website somewhere.

For much of the day we wandered around the city square, visited the Duomo, which looks very clean having had the outsides restored to their marble coloured glory, but the inside was still dark, and visited Chris´favourite department store Rinascente (pardon spelling). We found out that many of these particular stores have, when they can, roof top cafes often out in the open. This one looked straight out to the Duomo at roof height - an excellent way to view the beautifully carved roof top. I went up to the roof on an earlier visit to Milan about 8 years ago a stunning and peaceful place to rest and reflect, especailly, as at that time, there were thousands of visitors down below! There was a much smaller crowd there today - another reason for travelling to Europe in winter!! Oh and did I mention the Milano sales? And the people travel to Milano to go shopping at the winter sales?? Wait for my next blog......

No crowds or Queues in our Winter Holiday in Milan, Italy

We travelled to Milan, Italy, by plane over the snowy Swiss Alps, descended through a low bank of cloud, and landed in cold foggy and frosty like conditions at Milano Airport.

Our Milano Friends met us, we dropped off our cases at the hotel and went for a walk along the canal. So cold!! I was so pleased I had 3 coats!! It was freezing!!

The canal area was a place of contrasts. One small section had been closed off and filled in. Around here it was dirty, littered with dog poo and cigarette butts, and had graffitti everywhere. Just across the narrow road, and around the corner, where the canals were filled with water and were used, were shops and cafes, and some hardy people with market stalls.

This area had always been the working part of Milano, warehouses and homes. We were shown a trough of water, which apparantly was used for domestic washing. Today the warehouses and homes are very expensive apartments and restaurants with one or two shops thrown in. However the outsides, as required by regulations look exactly as they did many years ago.

Apparently this canal area is extremely busy in the summer - everyone in Milano comes here, to dine but not today in the very cold. In fact, when we came by the next evening to eat, we had lots of choices from many nearly empty restaurants.

At the end of our brisk cold walk on this our first day in Milan we retired to the car, to inspect some interesting buildings our friend discovered elsewhere in the city.

it is so easy travelling to Europe in winter - you can go anywhere and there are no crowds and queues!

But wait - read more in my next blog about queues.....