A tantilizing glimpse of Cork, Ireland

Ahhhh!!! So much to see in Cork, so little time!! The only perception I had of Cork was that locals partook in lots of sailing, including the biannual Cork Week Sailing Festival, a racing event that many New Zealand sailors aspire to go sailing in. Cork, a major Irish seaport, is the Republic of Ireland’s second largest city. Literally meaning,“swamp,” Cork is often referred to as the “real capital of Ireland” by its residents. There is much rivalry between Cork and Dublin. Cork people consider themselves ‘different’ to the rest of Ireland, often referring to themselves as ‘rebels.’ Indeed they have their own accent, very musical and pleasant to listen to, which is great, because they tend to love talking! On Saturday morning, after a pleasant evening relaxing in the Collins Bar at comfortable Carrigaline Court Hotel, we visited the English Market in the Cork City Centre. Established in 1788, many stallholders, often run by families, have been there for over 100 years. The current market buildings were constructed in the mid 19th century until they destroyed by fire in 1980 and had to be extensively refurbished by Cork City Council. Today the Cork English Markets is very multicultural, selling a huge variety of food and fresh produce, all beautifully displayed, and attract local visitors and international travellers alike. Even Queen Elizabeth visited during her recent trip to Ireland in June.

The shopping precinct of Cork has changed much over the past 15 years, and is perfect for to go shopping along its traditional streets,

to admire the eclectic array of old and new buildings, and indulge in a tad of shopping followed b a delicious coffee in the eclectic Bookshop Coffee house – as we did. Oops! Lunch time and that means time to go sailing with the Royal Cork Yacht club……

Titanic Exhibitions in Ireland - a one hundred year commemoration

As it is the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic there is much interest in the ship and the travellers who sailed on her. In Belfast where the ship was built, a new state of the art exhibition centre (nicknamed “The Iceburg’ by the Befast residents) was erected and opened in March 2012 and by Queen Elizabeth’s visit to Belfast in late June had already received over 250,000 visitors. Everything is ‘Titanic’- the height of the magnificent building is the same height of the bow, an inside wall replicates the cladding on the ship, while outside the exact size of the ship is outlined on the ground. The high technological displays engages all the senses - sights, sounds, vibrations. A strong focus of the exhibition was of the building of the vessel, the people, who and why they were on the Titanic for that partcular trip, and the times. There is also a very touching movie featuring the team led by Robert Ballard of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and what they initially saw on the sea floor in 1985. The only item that is not on public display is the Grand Staircase. This is s huge bone of contention amongst locals and visitors. Apparantly one has to attend a VIP function in order to view this famous Titanic artefact. Down in Cobh, fromerly known as Queenstown, Cork, another Titanic exihibition was available to visit. Ths town is the headquarters of the White Star Line company, which looked after the embarkation of passengers and mail before Titanic set sail. This exhibition had a different focus on the tradegy of the Titanic, focussing on the footsteps of the passengers and the times in Cobh. While there was some discussion about the high cost ot visit this exhibition, those of our fellow tourists who did visit felt that the exhibition was well worthwhile. In Cobh itself the town has preserved the buildings of the times in respectful memory of the people on Titanic and the subsequent disaster that befell them, three and a half days from setting sail from this pictuesque town, overseas to see the world. We have visited several Titanic exhibitions around the world, and the development of technology has enabled us to understand more about the boat, the times, why the disaster occurred. Many people have become quite emotional at Titanic exhibitions particularly in Ireland as they are descendents of the builders as well as the staff and passengers who had embarked on that fateful voyage. It also makes one humble and most grateful for the maritime safety rules and regulations in place today as a direct result of the inquiry into the Titanic disaster.

The Chester and Liverpool Adventure

We travelled by rail from London to Chester, through gentle hill rolling green fields and hedgerows, still rather sodden from recent deluges. Very easy on the eye and this green eye candy, along with the gentle rocking of the comfortable Virgin Express train soon had our heads nodding. Our hotel at Chester was at “The Mill’ a former corn mill set on either side of the call, and converted into a hotel by its owners about 20 year ago. Both our room and bathroom were luxurious and spacious, thanks to the hotel website which family inspected when booking the best room they could find for us. The Mill Hotel was immaculately kept and compete with large spa, gym and swimming pool, whick I immediately took advantage of. We expecially liked the prints of Venice (one of our favourite cities) taken many years ago, which adorned the walls - so appropriate for a hotel spanning both sides of the canal and also boasting the only privately owned canal bridge. Chester and the River Dee were most significant for milling, waterway trade and transportation, and more recently for hydro power generation and tourism. The food, tudor style architecture in the main shopping mall and the walkway around the city walls is most popular with travellers. Ah, Liverpool! Home of the Liver Bird and the Beatles! No, we did not do a Beatles tour, but we did stroll down Mathew Street which features the ‘Cavern’ - not the original, and the many Beatles paraphernalia shops and pubs with names such as the ‘Hard Days Night.’ A stroll along the Docklands - now a World Heritage Site - gazing over the Mersey River - remember that song by Gerry and the Pacemakers?? and a visit to the Beatles Museum brought the nostalgia, the music and the exciting days of the 1960’s to the mind. The lads of went to the pub a beer and to watch the Irish v All Blacks game whle the gals quckly checked out the summer sales. While the shops and prices were the same as London, the overstocked untidiness and crowds and queues in the London shops wre missing - much more condusive to shopping!! And yes, we did purchase a couple of little items......

Cities with nooks and crannies - paradises for travellers who enjoy shopping

Many cities such as London, have nooks and crannies which are great for travellers to visit as these give one the real ‘feel’ of the city. Often one needs a ‘local’ fo find these so we were delighted when a friend introduced us to the ‘Lamb and Flag’ in Rose Street, Covent Garden. www.lambandflagcoventgarden.co.uk/ Situated around a couple of corners down some narrow cobbled streets, this pub dates back to 1772 and has played host to many famous people including Charles Dickens. The current owners have kept the original look of the plae depicting its colourful past and we were also treated to ‘recent’ anecdotes experienced in the lifetime of our local friend, also called Charles. A couple of days later we were the same area in London, looking for a Ray’s (not mine) jazz shop, located in the famous Foyles Bookshop - which is well worth a visit. On the way we passed through Denmark and neighbouring streets which turned out to be a small music mecca, with guitar, saxophone, sheet music and other shops selling simiar wares. It was thrilling to hear strings of music wafting from all the shops as we strolled by. Even the Regent and Oxford Street areas, looking fully scrubbed up and very clean in preparation for the Olympics, have lanes and alleyways leading off them enticing strollers to explore the boutique shops bars and eateries. London, like many other cities such as Liverpool, is changing its conjested inner city street to walkways which make exploring ‘nooks and crannies’ much easier. Chester is another city of nooks and crannies, which when we visited, may travellers were exploring. The main street, complete with clock tower dedicated to Empress and Queen Victoria, is lined with tudor styled buildings. between the ground floor shops were many staircases which led to the first floor shops or to lanes to other parts of the city. The city wall, often at first floor level, enables strollers to look into offices and residences as they pass by. More about nooks and crannies to come...

Syndey - warm winter magic

Sunday June 20, 2012 Sydney, Australia, no matter the time of year is a great city for travellers to wander around. Even the old haunts, such as the the Sydney Opera house with its clean timeless architecture, the Circular Quay for people, busker and boat activity watching, the ferries come and go, the Rocks historical precinct, and Darling Harbour with its soothing water gardens and walkways. It is an ideal place to stop off on the way to ones oversea’s trip, to transfer one’s mind from work and, packing and ‘I am sure I have missed packing something!!’ mode into a relaxing and ‘sniffing the air’ one. Sydney turned on a warm, blue skied day for us on this winter Sunday. So balmy it was, that a lovestruck person wrote a “I’m Sorry, I love you’ message in the sky. OWe immediately booked to trip out to see the Humpback Whales just outside the Syndey Harbour heads. It was so easy to book online, and instead of printing off a booking form, all we had to do is show the booking form on our iphone. NOTE - if you are planning on going - make sure you book on http://www.whalewatchingsydney.net/ - a large and very comfortable vessel with plenty or viewing platforms. Every year from about June to November about 1200 humpback whales make an over 5000 mile trek from their breeding grounds in the north following the EAC current down Australia south to Antarctica to feed. As the current passes about 2 - 3 miles from the coast at the Sydney heads so it is very easy to find the whales. Within an hour of crusing through the many yachts Sunday racing on the Harbour we were out on open waters and our knowledgeable captain had us within the precint of three small pods of whales. Almost as soon as we arrived at the 100 metre allowable distance the whales started performing. Two whales swam close together, breathing simultaneously, like a chorus, while the third frequently breached, launching itself straitght up and completely out of the water at times so that we could see its whole white underside. it rolled around, waving its long flippers then breached, again and again. Atfer this awe inspiring adventure we slowly came back to earth by strolling around to the hstorical Rocks shops, bars and cafes - a must, we believe, for all travellers to Sydney.

New York - a Glimpse of a Glimpse...

We have been in New York for 4 days and 5 nights and that is pretty much all that I can say - a Glimpse of a Glimpse! We took 2 bus tours - one uptown and the other downtown but the traffic is so dense at times that the trips are exceedingly long! At least the tour guides are entertaining.

So we have done - the MeT Museum - loved the Afghanastan exhibition - they were part of the Silk Road route and had a blend iof intereting artefacts etc, and a huge quantity or works from the European artists. Saw 2 floors of the Guggenheim centre - but the most intersting place was the Frick Museum - a home of carefully selected items At some stage I will add more about this.
The Museum of Modern Art (MoMa) had a most comprehensive exhibiton of art works from James Ensdor (pardon spelling but it is nearly 1am) - his satire, paintings, sketches and themes were quite something. We have done the State Empire Building the statue of liberty, visited Harlem, Soho, China town, Greenwich town, Tribeca - the list goes on... but they were all just glimpses.

Especially as when we visited these museums it had been raining and I am sure that all of New York travellers from overseas followed us!

Tonight we did a show - West Side Story - a slightly modernised version but beautifully and tastefully done.

We have been so busy that I have done very little shopping, but the shops do stay open late! But not til after 1am, I am sure....

Our glimpse of Art and Culture has just whetted our appetite for more - New York, we will certainly travel to you again!!

Thoughts on our Cuban Holiday

It is quite some time since I wrote about our winter holiday, and to say that I have been very busy since our return is true, but not a great excuse.

However, I am still reliving my Cuban holiday! Last weekend I met someone else who had been holidaying in there a few months before I did.

I would like to have enjoyed the Casa experience, as he did. And enjoying a Cuban resort, as he also did. Staying in a Casa, or local home is like a Homestay - one up from back packers I guess. My associate's casa was in the very old part of Havana, and the decor was sixites/seventies. I have heard that staying in a Casa is a great way to experience the Cuban way of life. And a Swedish relative who had also recently visited Cuba, confirmed this. Especially as his hosts were most hospitable. I asked him, "Did you go to ..." and "Did you do...???" "Er, no" was the reply. "We were too busy partying."

Chris and I decided to stay in a Hotel, and after considerable internet research, including inspecting, on google earth, the hotel swimming pools - well, I did - we settled on the Hotel Mercure Sevilla Havane, Havana. The Hotel Sevilla has a most interesting history, and a couple of walls in the foyer with the forever stopping elevators are dedicated to this. There is a huge array of photographs, mainly black and white, with detailed captions. It makes you feel as if you are in a time warp! We found out that we were staying in the room directly above the one which Al Capone slept in.

I have never spent so much time in a hotel foyer, as I did at the Hotel Sevilla. There was so much happening! The decor, people coming and going, and live bands playing from breakfast time til after supper. We very quickly found out that it was cheaper to give them a tip/donation rather than purchase a CD which worked out at NZD$20. But we inadvertently acquired a very good Cd with great compilations of Cuban music.

If one likes partying, then Havana is the place to be. Not only is there music everywhere, Rum cocktails are so cheap - at around NZD $3 each, and delicious! I wonder if it is because Havana Rum is most generously applied to each drink? Much better than NZ rum, but I do know of a couple of barpeople in Ponsonby who make mojita's which taste almost as good as the Cuban ones.

If you are not into rum, but you cannot help foot tapping or evening dancing a bit of Salsa to the lively Cuban music, you do not even have to go into any of the bars or cafes. Just do as the locals do - hang in the windows! The glassless window shutters are always open to let the air circulate, and the openings are always full of people leaning in from the street, enjoying the ambience and music. Just watch where you put your bag, though...

The food, after reading about how not to go to Cuba for the cuisine or shopping, I enjoyed. Simple, with not much variety of ingredients, it was always cooked beautifully and well presented.

So there are the basics. Oh, and I had better mention the weather. January is ideal for Travellers - not hot and muggy, but a bit cold for the locals. There was not all that many travellers or back packers about, which suited us very well. Too cool, in my opinion to languish around the swimming pool, but I did take a couple of quick dips. And yes, as all the travel articles say, the pool is overlooked by a dilapated apartment building!

More about that later....

Winter snapshot of Madrid, Spain

Flying is such a great way to travel! One usually has a glimpse of the land of one's destination and flying over the Spanish countryside, over the 'swirly' mountain ranges, which looked as if they had been 'combed' in white snow, we reached the different shades of brown flattish countryside around Madrid. That's interesting, I thought, no snow! A few days ago I had received an email from a Swedish relative wondering if we had encountered a blanket of snow in Madrid. From the air the city did not look as if it had suffered from any snow at all. It was not until we taxied into the airport that we noticed that there were quite a few large clumps of snow on either side of the runway.

Madrid Barajas International Airport is huge. Situated about 13 kilometers from Madrid, it is a central hub for travellers, including to South and Central America, and Cuba. In 2006 a new extension was added to the airport, doubling its capacity. The terminal we arrived in and travelled to Cuba from, was light, airy, spacious and clean, and pleasantly free of travelling crowds. It even had a few sculptures here and there - some of which are in the slideshow. Our first glimpse of Madrid while travelling in from the Madrid Barajas International Airport, was a city of low buildings, apart from 4 skyscrapers on the horizon. Apparently these buildings, all individually architecturally designed, are part of Madrid's new business centre in the north of the city. Soon they will be joined by Spain's biggest, and brand new convention centre which will be shaped like the rising sun, reflecting Madrid's growth.

It was most pleasant to stroll around Madrid's City Centre, enjoying the large silvery fountains and feeling of light airy space. The temperature was a cool but dry 6 degrees and we were able to shed more layers of winter clothng. The city is around 100 years old, so the buildings are not too tall, plain with decorative features near the tops (sorry don't know the style) and the footpaths and boulevards wide. Madrid citizens are great walkers, and indeed the later in the day it became, the bigger the crowds grew in the shopping streets. However the wide boulevards in the middle of other wide streets were not too crowded as to make walking a mission, as it was not quite warm enough to sit outside in the cafes.

Yes, I know we said that we had had enough of museums!!! But we could not resist a peek at the Titanic exhibition which, even though most of us know the story inside out, was well worth the visit. As a result I and Daughter-in-Law each now own a necklace featuring a piece of coal off the Titanic!! And yes, we had a look through the Royal Palace, with it's luxurious velvet hangings and drapes, and inspected the huge and most impressive Armoury. Not only that, we just had to visit the Museo Nacionale de Prado. We spent about 3 hours in this world renowned National Museum, which, in its programme, had noted all the 'must see' art works and sculptures in its huge collection, which was very useful. Works by Spaniards Goya, Greco, Rembrandt, Rubens and Gainsborough have been beautifully restored and displayed in large spaces. Ideal for viewing, especially as it was winter and not the tourist season so we could see everything at our leisure. When we left the Museo Nacional late in the day we noticed a very long queue of people outside the entrance. We found out that the museum offers free entry on Sundays at 5pm and one weeknight free of charge, to residents who are unable to pay the entrance fee.

But the most interesting and eyecatching exhibition was an outdoor public event, the Cow Parade! They have done quite a bit of travelling since their visit to Auckland, New Zealand, a couple of years ago. These fibreglass, lifesized cows travel the world and are painted by artists in the various locations. At the end of each exhibition the cows are auctioned off for charity. After their Madrid sojourn they will be on display in Hong Kong.

Now, after 6 weeks of travelling to Europe in winter I am hankering for some sunshine and warmth. Thank goodness we are travelling to Cuba tonight......

Welcome to England, Travellers!!

Ever been travelling so much, that some times you are not sure where you are? Sometimes in this global village of our world, every city street has the same shops - Starbucks, Makkers, Subway, and the usual big name department and fashion stores.

Chris and I were sharply reminded, today, that we were in London, England. Because we discovered, again, that the English are very good at doing one thing. No, it was not shopping in in Regent street, checking out the sales, on what, we found out, was the busiest shopping day of the year. No, it was not their delightful London English accents either.

It was the queuing! English people are qreat at queues! You can see them, everywhere - Bus queues, get into shop queues, outside changing room queues, makeup testing queues, select product - but not pay for - queues, pay for item queues, information queues, try on shoe queues -oh and make sure you are queueing for the correct brand of shoe or, yes, stand in that queue over there, please!!

At least, after an exhausting day of queueing at the shops, we did not have to queue up for a beer at one of the English local pubs in London...... Uh Oh, somebody is standing behind us.... "Excuse me - is this the queue to get a beer?"