Thoughts on our Cuban Holiday

It is quite some time since I wrote about our winter holiday, and to say that I have been very busy since our return is true, but not a great excuse.

However, I am still reliving my Cuban holiday! Last weekend I met someone else who had been holidaying in there a few months before I did.

I would like to have enjoyed the Casa experience, as he did. And enjoying a Cuban resort, as he also did. Staying in a Casa, or local home is like a Homestay - one up from back packers I guess. My associate's casa was in the very old part of Havana, and the decor was sixites/seventies. I have heard that staying in a Casa is a great way to experience the Cuban way of life. And a Swedish relative who had also recently visited Cuba, confirmed this. Especially as his hosts were most hospitable. I asked him, "Did you go to ..." and "Did you do...???" "Er, no" was the reply. "We were too busy partying."

Chris and I decided to stay in a Hotel, and after considerable internet research, including inspecting, on google earth, the hotel swimming pools - well, I did - we settled on the Hotel Mercure Sevilla Havane, Havana. The Hotel Sevilla has a most interesting history, and a couple of walls in the foyer with the forever stopping elevators are dedicated to this. There is a huge array of photographs, mainly black and white, with detailed captions. It makes you feel as if you are in a time warp! We found out that we were staying in the room directly above the one which Al Capone slept in.

I have never spent so much time in a hotel foyer, as I did at the Hotel Sevilla. There was so much happening! The decor, people coming and going, and live bands playing from breakfast time til after supper. We very quickly found out that it was cheaper to give them a tip/donation rather than purchase a CD which worked out at NZD$20. But we inadvertently acquired a very good Cd with great compilations of Cuban music.

If one likes partying, then Havana is the place to be. Not only is there music everywhere, Rum cocktails are so cheap - at around NZD $3 each, and delicious! I wonder if it is because Havana Rum is most generously applied to each drink? Much better than NZ rum, but I do know of a couple of barpeople in Ponsonby who make mojita's which taste almost as good as the Cuban ones.

If you are not into rum, but you cannot help foot tapping or evening dancing a bit of Salsa to the lively Cuban music, you do not even have to go into any of the bars or cafes. Just do as the locals do - hang in the windows! The glassless window shutters are always open to let the air circulate, and the openings are always full of people leaning in from the street, enjoying the ambience and music. Just watch where you put your bag, though...

The food, after reading about how not to go to Cuba for the cuisine or shopping, I enjoyed. Simple, with not much variety of ingredients, it was always cooked beautifully and well presented.

So there are the basics. Oh, and I had better mention the weather. January is ideal for Travellers - not hot and muggy, but a bit cold for the locals. There was not all that many travellers or back packers about, which suited us very well. Too cool, in my opinion to languish around the swimming pool, but I did take a couple of quick dips. And yes, as all the travel articles say, the pool is overlooked by a dilapated apartment building!

More about that later....

Winter snapshot of Madrid, Spain

Flying is such a great way to travel! One usually has a glimpse of the land of one's destination and flying over the Spanish countryside, over the 'swirly' mountain ranges, which looked as if they had been 'combed' in white snow, we reached the different shades of brown flattish countryside around Madrid. That's interesting, I thought, no snow! A few days ago I had received an email from a Swedish relative wondering if we had encountered a blanket of snow in Madrid. From the air the city did not look as if it had suffered from any snow at all. It was not until we taxied into the airport that we noticed that there were quite a few large clumps of snow on either side of the runway.

Madrid Barajas International Airport is huge. Situated about 13 kilometers from Madrid, it is a central hub for travellers, including to South and Central America, and Cuba. In 2006 a new extension was added to the airport, doubling its capacity. The terminal we arrived in and travelled to Cuba from, was light, airy, spacious and clean, and pleasantly free of travelling crowds. It even had a few sculptures here and there - some of which are in the slideshow. Our first glimpse of Madrid while travelling in from the Madrid Barajas International Airport, was a city of low buildings, apart from 4 skyscrapers on the horizon. Apparently these buildings, all individually architecturally designed, are part of Madrid's new business centre in the north of the city. Soon they will be joined by Spain's biggest, and brand new convention centre which will be shaped like the rising sun, reflecting Madrid's growth.

It was most pleasant to stroll around Madrid's City Centre, enjoying the large silvery fountains and feeling of light airy space. The temperature was a cool but dry 6 degrees and we were able to shed more layers of winter clothng. The city is around 100 years old, so the buildings are not too tall, plain with decorative features near the tops (sorry don't know the style) and the footpaths and boulevards wide. Madrid citizens are great walkers, and indeed the later in the day it became, the bigger the crowds grew in the shopping streets. However the wide boulevards in the middle of other wide streets were not too crowded as to make walking a mission, as it was not quite warm enough to sit outside in the cafes.

Yes, I know we said that we had had enough of museums!!! But we could not resist a peek at the Titanic exhibition which, even though most of us know the story inside out, was well worth the visit. As a result I and Daughter-in-Law each now own a necklace featuring a piece of coal off the Titanic!! And yes, we had a look through the Royal Palace, with it's luxurious velvet hangings and drapes, and inspected the huge and most impressive Armoury. Not only that, we just had to visit the Museo Nacionale de Prado. We spent about 3 hours in this world renowned National Museum, which, in its programme, had noted all the 'must see' art works and sculptures in its huge collection, which was very useful. Works by Spaniards Goya, Greco, Rembrandt, Rubens and Gainsborough have been beautifully restored and displayed in large spaces. Ideal for viewing, especially as it was winter and not the tourist season so we could see everything at our leisure. When we left the Museo Nacional late in the day we noticed a very long queue of people outside the entrance. We found out that the museum offers free entry on Sundays at 5pm and one weeknight free of charge, to residents who are unable to pay the entrance fee.

But the most interesting and eyecatching exhibition was an outdoor public event, the Cow Parade! They have done quite a bit of travelling since their visit to Auckland, New Zealand, a couple of years ago. These fibreglass, lifesized cows travel the world and are painted by artists in the various locations. At the end of each exhibition the cows are auctioned off for charity. After their Madrid sojourn they will be on display in Hong Kong.

Now, after 6 weeks of travelling to Europe in winter I am hankering for some sunshine and warmth. Thank goodness we are travelling to Cuba tonight......

Our winter Adventure in Rome

Today was the day we booked to see the Sistine Chapel in Rome. I will find out the website, but there is one on which you book the time and date.

This morning we took the local bus to the meeting point, outside where a tour organiser checked our tickets - there were about 20 of us, and took us over to the main entrance.

There I had a bit of a surprise. Instead of a chapel, which I had assumed that was all we would see, we were at the Vatican Museum, or series of Museums. Our guide checked us in, gave us maps, made a couple of brief explanations, then told us that we were on our own!

So off we went. Along corridors, into rooms, and more corridors, long hallways, rooms within rooms within rooms. The Vatican has museums of everything!! Museums of art, sculpture, modern religious arts, mosaics, animal statues, maps.....

The Vatican has recently turned 500 years old. According to wikipedia, there are 54 galleries, or salsas, and the visitor route through the museum takes one through almost every one. Naturally the Sistine Chapel is at the very end, so we saw many other famous and beautiful items, including many paintings and frescos by Raphael. has a detailed writeup of all the famous items here. After our visit, which took a leisurely two hours we went around to St. Peter's Square and Basilica. We spent a little time wandering in the peaceful square and inside the basillica, in which there is a lot to see - and well worth it - we spent a considerable time in the cathedral when we were here several years ago.

The best thing about our visit to Rome this time, was that being winter, there were not many people about. So we saw everything in the museum and churches at our leisure. Just imagine trying to see everything while shuffling along in a huge queue!! No thanks....

We spent the rest of the day strolling and bussing around Rome, enjoying a the Pantheon and the beautiful Trevi fountains. Again, we could do so at our leisure, without pushing through crowds and joining queues.

Then it was off to stroll along the Tiber River. Oh look - are they flowers on the riverside trees? In the middle of winter? Oh, no, its not flowers, it is hundreds of plastic bags and rubbish - all caught in the trees during the recent flooding. And its a good thing we decided not to to do a riverboat tour - the Wharf is all smashed to bits!!

Never mind, I might check out the shops instead - are the winter sales still on??

From Florence to Rome, two different cities

Each city we visited during our winter holiday in Europe had it's own special character and personality.

One of the activities I especially enjoyed was exploring the parks and open spaces, even though in winter time they might not be at their best. While Chris explored the antique and artisan shops on the by the bridge with the Jewellery shops, before he discovered a 'real' and warm London Style pub because he refused as did some other visitors to pay to visit a park, I walked around this one, quickly, because the day was very cool. There were many marble statues along the walkways, fountains, a very interesting porcelain display, and a reproduction of a typical cottage or courtyard garden in Pompei, the result of archealogial and soil diggings. As with many gardens of ancient cities, the garden designs were very much advanced and served several purposes, for examplem herbs for cooking, cosmetics and curing, vegetables, flowers, insect control, irrigation, and cooling.

Before I start talking briefly about animals, it is interesting to note that in this garden there was a notice about a particular bird which apparantely was very special, the only time I have ever seen anything at all about animals in parks. All the gardens we visited were restored to preserve the past. Not like in New Zealand, where we conserve our birds and trees!!

While strolling around this park in Florenza, I noticed some very well fed cats and a couple of feeding bowls. Apparently cats are welcome and looked after in some parks. In Rome, the next city we visited, there are many cats living around the Colossium. And there is an organsiation of ladies dedicated to feeding the cats, including speying them and looking after their well being. Their services also include looking after neglected cats, often finding homes for them, a bit like the SPCA in NZ.

Rome was a little warmer than Florence, but damper, we felt. Built on seven, or was it nine hills by Romulus and Remus, Rome today is a city with all the modern trappings built around many ancient ruins, many of which have beed restored and are available to visit. So one can be walking along a busy city street, turn a corner and there is the Coloseum, an ancient church or just a wall. The place I, and many others, love to visit, which is suddenly come upon when turning a corner, is the Trevi Fountain. Attached to the end of a building, the white colouring of the statues and steps, and the peaceful shushing of the water, is an oasis in the city. On the we visited, there were quite a few people there, not like the first time we visited, a few years, in summer, when you could hardly get near to it because of the crowds.

Because we had already visited many of the attrations during our last visit to Rome, this time we spent a lot of time strolling around the city, enjoying the street life and occasionally visiting the shops as the winter sales were in full flow.

The next day we visited the Vatican museum and the Sistine Chapel, more about that in my next blog.

The Pub Scene in Europe

It is always interesting, when traveling, to see what people so for entertainment.

The corner London pubs around the city area are where people congregate at all times of the day and evening it seems. The meals are very good, we felt and there is no smoking, you could go along, with your family and friends and not come out smelling like an ash tray.

In St Petersburg, Russia, everybody smoked everywhere and while we did not visit any pubs while we were there, we noticed that when we sat in the bar/ reception area, our clothes stank of smoke. It was much worse on our last evening of our stay there, as we decided to eat in at the Restaurant. Unforutunately, there was a big party on as well. Everybody smoked and the noise and smoke spoilt our evening, which happened to be Christmas Day, as I recall. I am sure that the smoke brought on my cold, which lasted all through our visits to Sweden and London.

In Sweden people could not smoke inside pubs. At one English style pub we dropped into to warm up from the very cold, we noticed a parcel on a seat where we intended to sit. I was just about to pick it up and take it to the bar when there was a loud tapping on the window. The owners of the parcel were having a smoke outside in the cold and had left in on the seat to book it upon their return.

In Italy, in the pubs the emphasis is on food, not drinking and over indulging is not tolerated. As a result, we noticed very few pubs as we New Zealanders know them, but dairy and delicatassen like shops where you can purchase coffee, and all types of food and have a drink as well. In some cities, for example in Milano, at around about 6 or 7pm a free, or spend so much and it is free, buffet of hams cheeses breads and other finger foods are put out for clients in establishments which are a cross between a pub and a restaruant. At this time many people visit, often with family including young children and grand parents, as well as friends, to have a quick drink, which is often a cup of espresso coffee. They stay only for a short time, then move on. In Florence, the only pub we found, well Chris did when I was out in the cold walking around a huge park, was an English Style pub on the suburbs side of the bridge which has all the jewellery shops. It was run by a couple of young chinese people. But of course we were expected to order a slice of pizza or something to eat!!

In Madrid, Spain, we noticed that in most bars and cafes people smoked. However we did find a chain of restaruants which serve great breakfasts at a reasonable price where no one smoked, and also a pub with a restaurant called TGIF meaning Thanks God its Friday where no smoking was allowed.

In Havana, Cuba, everybody smokes everywhere but because everything is open, the smoke does not hover inside. I also believe that the smell of cigars and the cigarettes are much more tolerable than the cigarettes we have in New Zealand. There is music everywhere in the pubs which are also cafes or restaurants, and everyone is expected to eat. And tip.

Now we are in Santiago, Chile. It is our first afternoon and we spent a long lunch outside a cafe, where we noticed, that people smoked over their meal. But it is so hot here, that I doubt if we will eat inside at all!

It will be great to enjoy our local pub scene in Auckland, New Zealand, where smoking is tolerated outside only. This means of course that when one goes walking along the street, one must remember not to breath in when passing a pub....

Winter Holiday in Florence and more about Museums.

Gosh, I am so please that we decided to spend some of our Italain Winter Holiday in Florenza!

Here is was a little warmer than during our stays at Milano and Venice and it was very pleasant exploring the streets. Even though the skies were clear and the sun was shining, I have to say, I felt a little claustrophobic. I suspect it was because the sun was low, being winter, and it did not reach the streets. Also there are not many open spaces in the city centre. But we did note that a large area, near to the railway station was being refurbished.

There is not much traffic in Florenza - some of the streets are for walking only, while others seemed to be for servcive vehicles only. In fact when we viewed the city from the top of the Duomo belltower,which was over 400 steps to get there, it was apparent that the limited traffic zone extended for quite a large area. So it was ideal for exloring the city on foot, and to admire the old, but very neat and tidy variety of buildings. It was interesting to note that on some of the older buildings, all of which seemed to be in perfectly restored condition, had areas of the outer walls exposed so we could view the construction methods.

More by accident than by design, we ended up spending a lot ot time in museums during our stay in Florence,

We had made a reservation to view the Galleria at the Uffuzi Palace, and it took all morning to view the beautiful artworks on display. Most had been restored, as had a good part of the building.There was an interesting Exhibtion by Giovanni Francesco (Guecino) - 1591 - 1666, of his sketches and watercolours in brown wash.

Artwork in the Gallerail had been collected since the 17th century by the Medusa family, and feature was a special Medusa exhitibition was the famous Medusa Head with the snakes emerging from it.

We also visited the Museo d'ell Opera di Santa Maria del Torre, then a museum dedicated to the history of the Duomo. It has been in existance since 1891.

Even though the first stone was laid in 1296, the facade was not finished until the early 1900's due to various political reasons over the years. Many architects submitted designs for the facade, all of which were on display. There were also many statues and artifacts all of which were in the Duomo at some time or other.

Michangelo and Brunelleschi were two of the many famous artists who worked on the Duomo during its 700 years of construction.

We visited the Accadamea where the statue of 'David' resides, along with his 4 unfinished slaves. The Accadamea had much of the art collected during thte Medusa Dynasty, including a musical instrument collection and the worlds oldest violin. The exhibition was great until we entered a large hall chocker full of replicas of statues, including hundreds of busts lining the very high walls! A bit of overkill, we felt, as we quickly wandered through and on to other things.

Before I move away from talking about exhibtitions and museums, I have to repeat that there were few few people and tour groups around, so we could see everything at our leisure, in particular, the statue of David, around which everyone would spend hours gazing at. Winter is such a great time to do the 'indoors' of European Cities - museums are warm and comfortable.

As in all the other cities we visited during this winter holiday, the winter sales were on and lots of people were shopping. But that is another story.....

Winter Holiday in Venice - the best time to go in our opinion

We awoke on our first morning in Venice to tiny snow flakes falling into the garden courtyard outside our hotel window.

Another white holiday! And in Venicia! Wow!!

But no, the day was not cold enough, and the streets and steps had been well coated with rock salt to prevent ice forming.

On this our third trip to Venice, we walked everywhere, rather than hopping on and off the Grande Canale Ferries. There I found another reason for holidaying in Europe in winter - there were very few people there! We could wander down all the narrow streets withouth pushing past people coming the other way. We could do all the window shopping we wanted, without looking over people's heads if we could. We discovered many restaurants and cafes, and did not have to queue.

Best of all, St Marc's Square was not chocker full of people and pidgeons! We could stand in the middle of the square and gaze around us. We had decided to visit the Cathedral, as last time we came to St Mark's Square, in the summer, there was a huge queue of tourists to get in, so we visited the Doges Palace next door, instead. Today, there were no queues at all, so we could wander in and gaze at the Byzantuim style decor and art, at our leisure. Upstairs we went out onto the narrow balcony, which gave us an unobstucted view of of St Marcs Square, without pushing past people to take pictures. You may recall in a recent blog about the 4 horses at the National Geographic Shop and Museum not far from Piccadilly Circus in London, which were made of driftwood and modelled on the very same horse on this balcony. Today, replica horses are of this balcony the originalss, made of bronze, have been restored and are now inside. Also inside accompanying the broze horses, is an excellent exhibition of the history of the cathedral, its contsruction and resoration, art, articfacts, and tapestries.I am positive that this exhibition was not here when we first visited, around eight years ago. What is most interesting, and we found this also in other exhibitions about restorations, whether they be art or buildings, is the technology involved and the methods of the restorations, from the 'facelifts' to the preservation and restoration of the underneath materials which we do not see.

No, we did not visit Harry's Bar this time or go up the Tower, from which one gets an awesome view of of Venice and its surrounds, but we did meander through the markets and shops at the Rialto Bridge, as well as through the many squares and narrow alleyways admiring all the beautiful, but old appartment buildings, hotels and palaces. Of course it is hard to ignore the shabbiness of some,and the pealing off of plaster of others. But Venice is not crunhbling down into the sea. One only has to look beside many the shabby doors to find modern security keyboards for owners to get to their apartments. Like many cities, in Venice buidling facades cannot be changed, but behind the facades, if the real estate advertisements are true, apartments do seem to have all the mod cons.

We noticed several changes in Venezia since our first visit, 8 years ago. Because the damage sustained in the 1976, or round that time, high tides and flooding, Venice, along with Florence, sustained much damage and lost many art works and treasures. As a result various localworld wide groups, including "Save Venice" fundraised and restored many buildings in Venice. I recall one group which selected 10 Churches to restore, and visitors were encouraged to visit all ten and, of course, donate to the resotrations. I did not see and reference to the project this time so am not sure if the programme has been completed or not. But the clock tower, with its two men striking the bell on the top, has been finished. And a new bridge, located to the right of the railway station has appeared. This means that people coming to Venice by car, or bus across the causeway, do not have to walk miles to reach certain parts of the city. And what I always liked, when walking out of the station at Venice, was gazing across the canal at this run down church building. Today it is covered with neting for restoration, and topped with a huge advertisement for a fashion company!! One hopes that the company is paying a signifant amount to place such an eyesore for visitors wanting to feast their eyes on 'old Venizia.'

Winter definately is the best time to visit Venice. Certainly it is cold. I understand it can be foggy at times. But it is warm between the buildings and in the shops. There are still some hardy Gondoliers about, if one wants a cold romantic ride around the canals. It is also the best place from which to take photos from the water.

But we did wonder - what is the winter night life like in Venice? We discovered that the Restaurant promoting live Jazz Music every night means every night from March to November. Then, quite by chance we found out. One evening, which happened to be a Friday, we thought we would wander to the Rialto Bridge Area to relax inside (too cold outside by the canal) for dinner. We heard modern music, and turned towards it. There in this square, was a lot of people, in coats, hats and scarves, all standing up outside in the cold, all drinking and talking. The source the music was from one of several bars. Consisting of a counter, stock and no seating, these bars all served drinks to clients who stood outside. We found a bar which had seating inside, and squeezed in, sat down, and watched the activities. Outside, all the people seemed to come and go really quickly. We wondered why as we sat in the warm, enjoying our campary and soda's. Later when we left the bar, we found out why. Outside the temperature was cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey.....*

* nautical saying - google it to find out what it means....



We found